RPC's Pacific Northwest Cragging 2009

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RPC's Pacific Northwest Cragging 2009
Created On: Oct 1, 2009
Last Edited On: Oct 6, 2009

The Bend, Tieton Gorge, WA

MXMX
MXMX

Just a way to organize my stuff...work in progress.

Another day of cragging at The Bend (Tieton). Ran into Wayne Wallace & partner. Had a good time with these guys over dinner afterwards. Shirley took a fall on Pure Joy (10c....funky pro held but then fell out once she climbed past the piece later...bit spooky) but MX (10a) was a walk for her. I did that 2 pitch line (10b & 9) on the left side of the wall advertised as the best 5.9 finger crack in WA! Indeed, 10b part was easy, the .9 finger crack just kept on giving. Ran in a single pitch.

Dirty Sanchez, Goose Egg Mountain, WA

Dirty Sanchez
Ride The Lightning
Dirty Sanchez
Dirty Sanchez
Dirty Sanchez
Dirty Sanchez
Dirty Sanchez
Dirty Sanchez

Early summer of '09, Shirley & I climbed our 2nd line on Goose Egg Mountain. Though I'd give Ride The Lightning next door a 3 out of 4 star rating, this one might get no stars. Ho-hum climbing & generally forgettable.

Cougar Buttress, Bend, OR

Cougar Buttress
Cougar Buttress
Cougar Buttress

A fun day out with our friend Josh on a new (to us) crag in central Oregon. We did a 4-pitch (in 2P's) Cougar Buttress line & Josh led some bolted 5.10's. Very nice!

Prime Rib Of Goat, Mazama Wall, WA

Prime Rib Of Goat
Prime Rib Of Goat
Prime Rib Of Goat

Shirley & I climbed it at the tail end of summer. Not very good. Some fun pitches but much class 2/3 hiking also in between climbing. Maybe some of the other classics are better - will try sometime.

Birds In A Rut, Smith Rock, OR

Birds In A RutBIAR
Birds In A RutBIAR
Birds In A RutBIAR
The ScabThe Scab
Birds In A RutBIAR

Sounded decent & we've never done the hike up there...in the end, not really worth the effort. Stay home & have a beer IMHO. Also got on the Scab...an old, apparently uncompleted route on the right side of the formation. Saw a bail cam & then it saw me bailing as well...spooky a bit IMHO.






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cp0915

cp0915 - Oct 9, 2009 1:25 pm - Voted 10/10

Dirty Sanchez

Great name!

rpc

rpc - Oct 9, 2009 1:40 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Dirty Sanchez

I know, I loved it too :)

5 of 4 stars for the name, 0 stars for climbing quality...still worth tho :)

darinchadwick

darinchadwick - Apr 27, 2010 1:42 pm - Voted 10/10

Proud first ascent of BIAR.

Hey, Ryan and I did the first ascent of Birds in a Rut back in the day. We figured the name would scare off the sport climbers and it described the condition of the route as we found it. Actually it came from some guy who misunderstood Ryan describing the Virgin Arete and thought he said BIAR. What did you rate it at? Ryan bolted some really nice sport routes off to the right of Birds that were really nice in the .10-.11 range.

rpc

rpc - Apr 27, 2010 5:03 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Proud first ascent of BIAR.

Hi Darin,
I did not realize you and Ryan L. climbed together. "Birds In a Rut" vs. "Virgin Arete" confusion is funny...I guess they could sorta sounds similar :) I guess the route is in the 5.7 to .8 range. We rapped after that chimney/dihedral pitch though. If we go back for Santiam Hw. L., we'll try and check out other routes up there by Ryan. Thanks for visiting Darin. Cheers.

darinchadwick

darinchadwick - Apr 29, 2010 8:47 am - Voted 10/10

Re: Proud first ascent of BIAR.

We climbed together a few times in the late 90's. He was pretty motivated back then, lot's of good ideas and a backpack full of batteries for the HILTI. I was mostly his belay slave, but got to drill a few, climb a few, and name a few. We thought birds was 5.7. You know if you've climbed that route you've been climbing at Smith too long.

rpc

rpc - Apr 29, 2010 3:50 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Proud first ascent of BIAR.

Interesting Darin - had no idea. Actually, the new Watts book is loaded with many new great looking lines, some of which I have not heard about prior to the book. Some are probably Ryan's.

Viewing: 1-6 of 6


RPC's Pacific Northwest Cragging 2009

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