Schleierkante, (Spigolo del Velo)

Overview

This is a continuous and challenging climb. The descent is also somewhat time-consuming and involves several abseils(3), with some traverses and downclimbing.

Getting There

From Rifugio della Velo, take the marked trail to the Via Ferratta, until a branch rail takes off for the base of the buttress. 

Route Description

Bring a light rack and slings. Look for thread possibilities and pitons already in place. Start at a small alcove and climb some relatively easy (5.5) rock upwards over decent holds and find a belay after about 80 feet. Then trend right onto a steep face with sparse protection to another piton protected stance and belay. My advice is follow the line of least resistance but never straying from the nearly direct line to the summit. There are 3 stages to the route, and the easier climbing is on the first "buttress," and route finding shouldn't be an issue. There is also a wide gap or "spreizschritt" (step-across) to attain the second buttress. The climb slowly increases in difficulty and exposure, where the final pitches are in the 5.8+ category with minimal and wide spaced protection. 

Essential Gear

Helmet, a 60 meter rope, standard alpine rack with wired stoppers through smaller Camelot cams up to maybe 2". Quickdraws for clipping fixed pro and longer slings for threads and reducing rope drag.

External Links

Add External Links text here.