Approach
The base of the climb, Klein Matterhorn (3,820 m) is approachable by cableway.
Route Description
From Klein Matterhorn (3820 m) go down to the saddle (3796 m) in front of Breithorn plateau and then head E on the broad track towards the Breithorn. Instead of climbing up, continue Eastwards over the Breithornpass (3824 m) and along under the S side of the Breithorn, below the crevasse zones of the upper Ghiacciaio di Verra. Pass below the rock island with the Cesare e Giorgio Rossi Bivouac (3750 m) and the slope to the easily reachable Schwarztor. Continue under the rocky SW spur of Pollux and move round and up to the ZWillingsjoch (Passo di Verra; 3845 m; 2-3 hours from the cableway). Now climb the, often icy, steep slope on the left (W) to the loose rocks of the SE Ridge, wich leads very airly to the summit, the last part on steep snow or ice (1 hour from the col).
Essential Gear
Rope for a team, crampons, ice axe and winter clothes. Don't forget map & gps in case you are caught in a storm.
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