Climbing the Toad
The SE Ridge is a fun snow climb on a steep and exposed cornice. Like all western aspects in the Huayhuash, the cornice is extremely overhung in spots and gets steeper and scarier the higher you go. Much of the snow on the east side of the ridge is totally rotten.
Despite its AD rating this climb was fairly serious in the conditions encountered in 2007. Cornice collapses are a major cause of accidents in the range and this one should not be treated lightly. Downclmbing the high ridge is pretty sketch.
Nevertheless, the views are fantastic, stretching from Rondoy in the north, past Jirishanca and Yerupaja to Siula Grande in the south.
Huayhuash Trek to Moraine Camp at 4,800 meters. See main page.
From the upper Yerupaja West Glacier, climb snow slopes and some easy rock to gain the Seria Norte-Rasac col (5750 meters) and head up the ridge to the right, gaining 400 meters to the obvious high point.
Descent is by down climbing the route or rapping the Eastern rock face. Be prepared to leave your own anchors on loose and compact rock.
You´ll want two tools, crampons, and probably a rope. Anchors are non-existent on the ridge. Bring slings and rock pro if you plan to rap. The glacier can be crossed unroped.
Add External Links text here.