8-July-2006: Second pitch of Kautz glacier route. This route changes from snow to exposed glacier ice as the season progresses.
The party ahead of us in this picture chose a line which may have appeared to be easier, but topped out near some large crevasses - we decided to climb straight up the most obvious line and encountered 40-50 degree ice with fairly pronounced features and rests. The glacier ice took picks and points well and held screws securely.
Some of the ice pinnacles can be used as rap anchors for descending. We also found a secure snow anchor about 75m above the base of this pitch (probably buried pickets ?)
(the first pitch
was simply snow, and easily climbed / descended, but as the season goes on it will probably ice up)