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Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.47590°N / 13.13920°E |
GPX File:
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Route Type:
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Mountaineering |
Season:
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Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Rock Difficulty:
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Class 4 |
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Difficulty:
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UIAA II-, mostly I |
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Introduction
| The eastern ascent route on Monte Sernio is a very beautiful tour. It is diverse, the scenery is great and the ascent is also quite challenging for a hiker. But the tour can be also quite long. Monte Sernuio belongs to Paularo and from there this ascent goes quite around. But if you are staying in this mountain group for more than just one day, this is one of the first ascent options to consider. |
Rating The Route (By Hiking Standards)
On the SAC Hiking Scale the route difficulty would be graded T5.
On the east ridge0. General: From 1732 m to 2187 m, slopes exposition east. Marked (yellow marks), but not protected. Difficulties don't exceed UIAA II- degree (one detail, otherwise I). During the whole ascent we didn't put poles on our backpack. For the descent poles are very useful. Except good shoes you don't need any other equipment. Ascent in the morning can be hot, so have enough to drink.
1. Effort: cca 500 m (from the parking place above Val Aupa cca 1500 m). From the Nuviernulis notch you will need less than 1 h 30 min, from Rif. Grauzaria good 2 h 30 min and from the parking place above Val Aupa 4 h.
2. Power: 3 - Middle.
3. Psyche: 3 - Middle.
4. Orientation: 2 - easy.
Approach
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The final part of the ascent starts on Forca Nuviernulis (notch), 1732 m. This can be reached by the following variants:
If coming from these two sides, you can also do a shortcut. While Nuviernulis notch lies on the E side of Torre Nuviernulis, a marked path goes also through the ravine W of the tower, directly up on the main ridge of Monte Sernio. Above on the ridge the crossroads is marked and a good path is descending down into the steep, crumbly ravine (T5, UIAA I).
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Route Description
Monte Sernio East face normal route (UIAA II-, mostly I).
The path on Sernio
SceneryFrom the Nuviernulis notch you descend some 20 m towards the south where the marked path deters right (westwards) through pine-bushes. Is descends some more meters until the lowest rocks of Torre Nuviernulis are reached, then it starts ascending first quite steeply then moderately until the main ridge of Monte Sernio is reached W of the Nuviernulis tower.
The path continues in the same direction, soon hits the first steep rocky step and overcomes it in an easy climb. Climbing over rocky steps and following the path over a steep terrain is always exchanging and the route keeps close to the edge of Monte Sernio's beautiful NE face. Following good marks we ascend further up and reach a steep gorge, falling down into the NE face. It turns us left, the route goes into the ravine, which continues above the gorge and follows it a few more meters until the ravine is closed by a boulder. There we must exit towards the right, climbing up by a narrow but short ledge. Difficulties don't exceed UIAA II- and at the end of the ledge there's also a wedge to install protection. Above, the climb becomes even easier and the route goes left and away from the NE face edge.
We cross some 50 m into the east face, where the route scrambles up again. The terrain is unpleasant, crumbly, but not difficult to climb. After passing a fine limestone plate the route turns right again, in few turns gains considerable height and hits the SE ridge again. Following the easy ridge directly up we soon see the first cross (the bigger one stands on the fore-summit), reach it, pass it and finally reach also the second, smaller cross on the main summit.
1 Trip Reports