Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.20000°N / 13.65000°E |
Route Type:
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Hiking, Mountaineering, Mixed, Scrambling |
Season:
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Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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A long day |
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Difficulty:
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Walk-up and climbing |
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Approach
Starting point of the route is Aljazev Dom hut (1015m), which lies in the heart of the Vrata valley. More info about the hut is on the front page. Hut is accessible by car from Mojstrana village (12km), which is placed in the upper Savska Dolina valley at the end of Vrata valley (71km to Ljubljana, 13 to Kranjska Gora). You exit from the main road following the signs either to 'Mojstrana' or 'Vrata'. If you are using public transport you will have to walk up the Vrata valley from Mojstrana (2.30h).Route Description
Trail begins near the chapel by the Aljazev Dom hut. Gradually ascends through the forest till it reaches viewing point bellow the smooth cliff of Dolkova Glava (1717m). Than it turns left, firstly over the grassy slopes and over steep scree reaches less steep, undulating terrain just bellow the Stenar’s face (2501m). Behind this section path enters a steep and narrow scree valley, which spreads from Stenarska Vratca pass (2295m) and is surrounded by smooth cliffs. After some 10 minutes of ascend through it trail turns sharply right and gets out climbing steep slopes bellow Na Rusju plateau, where Bivak IV bivouac stands (1980m). Bivouac is cannot be seen till the last meters. 2.30-3h from Aljazev Dom hut.You take the route to top of the Kriska stena (here comes the route from Krnica valley) and you ascend there over a nice plateau called Na Rusju. Then on the top of Krsika stena you follow the signposts for Dolkova spica and Skrlatica. Path is now mostly traversing large rocky slopes, going to the left, around huge and deep basin at the foothills of Dolkova Spica (2591m), which is strewn with huge boulders.On the left side is the east face of Dovski Gamsovec.
For reaching the top you have more possibilities. One possibility goes somewhere in the middle of the wall trough the not very hard groove and the over the upper scree slopes to the top. The second possibility goes on the lowest part of the ridge between Rogljica and Dovski Gamsovec and then over the NE ridge to the top.
On both possibilities you must climb around UIAA II.
You descend by the same route.