Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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44.36690°N / 121.1466°W |
Route Type:
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Trad Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.10a (YDS) |
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Difficulty:
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5.10a |
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Number of Pitches:
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3 |
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Grade:
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II |
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Approach
P2
P2
P2Follow the directions on the main page to reach the base of Mesa Verde Wall. The route starts 20 feet right of a huge block leaning against the base of the wall (route starts immediately right of the start of Sundown) near the "prow" separating the northwest and southwest faces of The Wall.
Route Description
P1
Route
P2
P2Tale Of Two Shitties climbs to the same ledge system (at 3/4ths height) as Trezlar (right side of the ledges whereas Trezlar reaches the left side) in three fun pitches.
Pitch 1: 5.7, 70 feet. Climb up a shallow, left facing dihedral. Overcome a few bulges above (watch for some loose rock here) and belay at the base of a prominent, right-facing dihedral in nice clean rock (gear belay, semi-hanging).
Pitch 2: 5.10a, 60 feet. Climb up the clean dihedral. Going starts out easy (5.8-ish hands) and gets progressively harder higher up as the crack turns to fingers. Exit the dihedral near its top and traverse right and up through a bulge using the nice finger/hand crack (5.10a). Belay on a nice ledge with bolts.
Pitch 3: 5.9, 50 feet. Move left and climb a shallow, right-facing dihedral past two bolts (balancy face moves). There is some runout above the second bolt but the going eases quickly. Belay on the huge ledge from a bolted anchor.
Descent: See photo below. Do a single rope rap from bolted anchors back to top of pitch 2. Do a double rope rap directly to the ground. Alternatively, you could probably scramble left along the ledge system to reach top of Trezlar (class 4?) and follow descent directions given for that route.
Essential Gear
Rap Line
P3Set of nuts. Cams from green Alien to #3 Camalot (doubles in red Alien to #2 Camalot useful). Possibly extra finger to tight hands pieces.