Looking S, starting from the far right, Vasiliki Tower, Burgundy Col, the four Wine Spires, W Peak and E Peak of Silver Star Mtn.
The route (from camp) climbs S up moraines to the sunlit snow slope (above) following it to the Col between the E and W Peaks.
Photo by Derek Franzen
From the north in early spring
In the spring while there is still good snow cover, approaching Silver Star Glacier from the north via Silver Creek is a great ski or snowshoe trip and an excellent alternative to the shorter, but much steeper Burgundy Col approach. Camping in spring conditions can be done most anywhere in the upper basin of Silver Star Creek and the views of Vasiliki Ridge, the Wine Spires, and Silver Star Mountain are well worth the trip. Later in the summer, considerable brush, scree and steep talus make this approach less pleasant.
View down Silver Star Creek
There is parking at Silver Star Creek on the North Cascades Highway. From the parking spot, a trail leads about two miles up the east side of the creek. When the trail disappears, trend westward across the valley then climb more open talus slopes toward Burgundy Spire. Where the terrain allows, traverse easily to the glacier. Beckey reports that there are reasonable campsites with water above the creek basin at about 6400 feet on this approach.
With snow cover, it is still easiest to travel on the east side of Silver Star Creek for the first several miles. Once in the upper basin of the creek, travel and camping are possible most anywhere (remaining aware of avalanche hazard).
Possibilities from Silver Star Creek in red – depends on you and avalanche conditions. The far right is recommended later in the season. Burgundy Col approach is in blue.
Climb the glacier to the prominent col to the west of the summit. From the col, scramble to the summit. Early in the season, the summit ridge will be mostly steep snow. Snow free, it is a Class 3 scramble.
Summit Block snow free
Scrambling on the summit block
Early Season Climbing Photos
|Low on the glacier |
|On the glacier |
|On the summit block early season
Normal glacier travel gear. Skis or snowshoes in early season.