Silver Star Creek / Silver Star Glacier

Page Type
Route
Location:
Washington, United States, North America
Route Type:
Mountaineering
Time Required:
A long day
Difficulty:
Moderate Snow / Scramble
Rock Difficulty:
Class 3
Grade:
I

Route Quality: 5 Votes

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Silver Star Creek / Silver Star Glacier
Created On: Oct 28, 2003
Last Edited On: Oct 27, 2009
Wine Spires with snowLooking S, starting from the far right, Vasiliki Tower, Burgundy Col, the four Wine Spires, W Peak and E Peak of Silver Star Mtn.
The route (from camp) climbs S up moraines to the sunlit snow slope (above) following it to the Col between the E and W Peaks.
Photo by Derek Franzen

Overview

Silver Star MountainFrom the north in early spring




In the spring while there is still good snow cover, approaching Silver Star Glacier from the north via Silver Creek is a great ski or snowshoe trip and an excellent alternative to the shorter, but much steeper Burgundy Col approach. Camping in spring conditions can be done most anywhere in the upper basin of Silver Star Creek and the views of Vasiliki Ridge, the Wine Spires, and Silver Star Mountain are well worth the trip. Later in the summer, considerable brush, scree and steep talus make this approach less pleasant.



Approach

silver star creek approach,...View down Silver Star Creek

There is parking at Silver Star Creek on the North Cascades Highway. From the parking spot, a trail leads about two miles up the east side of the creek. When the trail disappears, trend westward across the valley then climb more open talus slopes toward Burgundy Spire. Where the terrain allows, traverse easily to the glacier. Beckey reports that there are reasonable campsites with water above the creek basin at about 6400 feet on this approach.

With snow cover, it is still easiest to travel on the east side of Silver Star Creek for the first several miles. Once in the upper basin of the creek, travel and camping are possible most anywhere (remaining aware of avalanche hazard).


Route Description

Silver Star Mountain, north side alternativesPossibilities from Silver Star Creek in red – depends on you and avalanche conditions. The far right is recommended later in the season. Burgundy Col approach is in blue.


Climb the glacier to the prominent col to the west of the summit. From the col, scramble to the summit. Early in the season, the summit ridge will be mostly steep snow. Snow free, it is a Class 3 scramble.
The East summit tower from...Summit Block snow free

kate klise, ben and ira...Scrambling on the summit block













Early Season Climbing Photos

Silver Star GlacierLow on the glacier
Silver Star GlacierOn the glacier
Silver Star Mountain, W RidgeOn the summit block early season

Essential Gear

Normal glacier travel gear. Skis or snowshoes in early season.







Silver Star Creek / Silver Star Glacier

Route
12 Images 2 Climber's Log Entries 0 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections

Geography

MyTopo Map Nearby Routes Interactive Map Routes in Washington

Parents

Silver Star Mountain (Okanogan)Routes