Beautiful 60 degree day, with awesome company.
Short steep hike up to the top of Smith Rock.
Led two 5.8 sport routes that were very fun, the best being "Hissing Llamas" at the base of the Phoenix Wall. Highly recommended.
Sweating like a pig on some of the routes!
multiple visits and learned the hard way to avoid the hot periods. Also most scary moments on upper pitches of the crumbly 'bishop (?)'- do not go there. Partners lead rope was knocking chunks down to shatter into schrapnel above the benevolent sport climbers below- terrifying for all (except for him who had no idea)
Awesome route, did it in hiking boots (had to aid past a few cruxes). Very scenic area I can't wait to do some of the other climbs.
I'm envious of Oregonians that can climb their year round.
Easy hike, good workout, nice views. Hiked numerous times.
nice climbing but too many people! started going here more in the winter and off-seasons.
Climbed Sky Chimney in 3 pitches. Swapped leads with Brian. Pitch 1 sucked but 2 and 3 are very nice. The moves are all straighforward, but it's steep and physical for a 5.7. Not recommended for someone just breaking into the grade. Nice 60 meter free hanging double rope rap off the summit platform to the ledge then a single to our packs.
Bend is like a womb to me...God bless it. It has nurtured me a plenty!
great climbing as usual
Two fun routes on Smith Rock Group. Evidently it is cragging season - there were lots of climbers at Smith! Evidently it is also "raptor peeing season" - judging from the "markings" on Sky Chimney, the birds have been busy.
Sky Chimney - very fun P2 and P3. As everyone has mentioned, felt more like 5.8.
Wherever I May Roam - P4 was the best. Great exposure with only a few crux moves.
Routes climbed on the formation:
Wherever I May Roam - good
Sky Ridge (3X) - excellent; Shirley's lead last time
Carabid - OK
Northwest Face (The Arrowpoint) - interesting peak-bagging
The Platform - interesting peak-bagging
Sky Chimney - (Feb. 22, 2004). Excellent. Demanding for 5.7.
Sunset Slab - nice, well-bolted, 1P face route. Not sure if it deserves all the stars it gets from Watts (not worth the hike if that's your only objective on the W. Side).
Unknown - some bolted line (5.6-5.7?) on the small crag just north of Sunset Slab crag. Forgettable.
White Satin - 3X with Shirley leading whole thing last time. Excellent P3. Soft for the grade.
Snibble Tower - real fun stuff! Only saw 1 other party climbing this thing in the 4 or so years we've been going to Smith. Very satisfying route and the 5.9 pitch is as good as Watts suggests. Do it and see for yourself!!
Culls In Space - Great crack route but a long approach for 40 feet of good climbing.
Excellent route. Good rock, plenty of bolts. One drawback: we had another pair of climbers climb less than a pitch behind us the whole way up. Annoying to say the least.
We ran into some trouble rapping off the descent route marked as #1 on this site (I think). Used two ropes to rapp off an overhang, and the knot got caught on the rock below the bolt. Had to have someone on top free it for us.. lesson learned.
This is the first time at smith rock. Increadible views & rock formations. The maps at the trailhead are a bit confusing so I just crossed the footbridge an headed left. I immediately headed up to the base (gumline) and followed it around trying to not have to drop down to the river trail. I scrambled around Monkey Face then caught the trail to the summit....WOW!..This was a great explore. I'll be back.
Climbed this with my friend Michael from Portland. It was my 5th time leading a sport route, and first time on multi-pitch sport (I've followed multi-pitch trad before). We didn't have any topos, just a vague idea of where the route was (we had actually started on the wrong place on the first try... ahem). Sufficient to say, it was a very... umm... slow climb. Nothing like climbing up to the false anchor on P3, and have to downclimb two bolts of 5.8-5.9 moves to get back on route, to get your blood flowing.
Sky Ridge--February 2003; quite a ways to the first bolt on the first pitch; the finger traverse at the top of the route is a lot of fun.
Sky Chimney--Mark did this route several years ago, before the anchors to Wherever I May Roam existed, which made rapping the route interesting!
Wherever I May Roam (November 2002)--sweet route! Natasha's first multi-pitch lead; led the whole thing.