South East Face-5.9 A1

Page Type
Idaho, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing, Aid Climbing
Summer, Fall
Time Required:
Most of a day
Rock Difficulty:
5.9 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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South East Face-5.9 A1
Created On: Feb 27, 2006
Last Edited On: Jul 10, 2009


SE Face topo- 5.9 A1SE Face Topo

Baron Spire's Southeast Face Route is the easiest known route. All routes require ascending the Beckey Bolt Ladder to reach the true summit. The aid portion has been described as A1-A3, depending on who you ask.

SE Face (III 5.9 A1) - From the eastern face of the spire approach directly below the summit block and ascend just to the right of a prominent corner.

Pitch 1:  (5.9) Climb the book like corner until it becomes a true exposed crack system. Angle left slightly until you reach an nice ledge with a tree.

Pitch 2:  (5.9) Climb directly above the tree into a right facing book.  Near the overhang traverse right to a ledge.

Pitch 3:  (5.8-5.9) Climb the crack to left, then bypass a boulder to the left about half way up the pitch onto a harder right facing book area

Pitch 4:  (5.9) Climb a short right facing book until the climbing becomes scrambling on broken ledges. Once you see the summit block and the notch to the right, scramble over to it and around the summit block to the west face.

Pitch 5:  (5.9 / A1-2) Ascend the series of bolts (The Beckey Ladder) on the overhang until it becomes more vertical. After a small ledge, make some free climbing moves until your onto the summit.


Baron Falls TowerBaron Falls Tower

The best approach for the SE Face route is via Grandjean, off ID-21.  If coming from Boise, via ID-21 this approach will save 30-40 minutes of drive time vs. the Redfish Lake Approach.  This approach involves slightly more elevation gain, but also offers a slightly earlier season approach., and you will not have to coordinate your times around the Redfish Shuttle Boat. 

 Road Approach

  • GrandJean:  38 miles north, then west of Stanley, ID on ID-21, turn left onto the GrandJean Road. Take this road for 7 miles and park at the trailhead near the camping area.

Hiking Approach

  • GrandJean:   Hike the Baron Creek Trail. At 1.5 miles, go left (east) up the Baron Creek Canyon. After crossing Baron Creek be sure to stay right and continue on the Main Baron Creek Canyon (don't take the North Fork).  Ascend to the top of scenic Baron Falls. Just north of Little Baron Lake, ascend the east slopes of Baron Spire.  On your way, you'll pass GrandJean Peak, Tohobit Peak, and Baron Peak, Rothorn Spire, Ed-A-How Spire, and Baron Falls Tower. It's 10 miles and 3100 feet to the base.

Essential Gear

This climb will require much more over-all weight than some other climbs in the region. Besides a general full rack with some redundancy with the nuts and mid sized cams, you'll need etriers, two ropes, and possibly an ascender. Depending on the latest conditions and what has been retro-bolted, if anything, you may need to utilize a few pitons, lost arrows, and hammer. At a very minimum expect to use the wire from a nut to loop over a naked bolt.

South East Face-5.9 A1

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