-Full Traverse- We hiked up over the ridge to the back side, waited for a father and his son to finish rappelling of P1. This was my first alpine multi-pitch. Led P2. Easy, fun, a little exposed.
———Then we decided to descend by traversing. We headed over the ridge extending from the summit. From the end of the ridge we could see across a deep gully to the next section of the ridge where there was some webbing. We figured there must be a way to rappel down from there. We eventually found out that reaching that webbing from the Tooth is nigh impossible.
We ended up descending down the back side of the ridge, through a few gullys and trees. I believe we had two rappels and some scrambling to work our way down to a gully below the webbing. From here we had some sketchy belays down the colouir which my partner said could probably be climbed in the winter. There was evidence of this as our last belay station was off a rusted piton. Like I said, sketchy belays and no where relay to place pro.
We finished at the bottom of the colouir, saving us some walking down the talus. When hiking up the talus to cross around to the south face this colouir is prominent on the north face.
It took about an extra two hours or so, meaning we just barely got on to the trail before we lost all light.
I would probably not do the traverse again, or really recommend it, as it was just okay, and not all that fun. :)
4 pitches and 6 rappels with Gimpilator leading his first alpine and my first multi-pitch. Low 5th interspersed with 3/4 except for one or two weird moves near the end. I was nervous but I had good company with all the folks climbing today. Good weather, dry rock and firm snow below.
It was crowded, even on a weekday, but we still had a blast. My first alpine trad lead.
Not as crowded as I expected!
Solo climb & downclimb... this was a super fun day, winding down after blitz tour through the North Cascades.
Found the face in good conditions, still some snow on the lower angle sections and ledges but most of the rock was dry. Some verglas on the lower sections but not problematic and melted as soon as the sun hit those slabs. Fun and easy, even in mountaineering boots.
Fun and straightforward climb. All of the exposed sections have great gear. Nice view of Rainier from the summit. Would be fun to climb in the spring and then ski off pineapple pass!
Now I see why this is a local classic. Great fun, not too terribly technical, and the approach has a distinct alpine feel. Perfect weather, and not too crowded (two folks ahead and two behind).
Fun earlier season climb with some snow and moderate rock. Cool.
Left car at 6am. We were first on route. We did it in 4 pitches (with one being just a scramble). No harder then 5.5 on the route we took. Great half day outing. Soaked in the sun for a bit on the summit before heading down.
I lucked out: great day in late season and only one other party on one of the busier routes arounf the pass.
Everyone does this, but I guess they all sign the peak register instead of the route register. Why not both?