South Ridge

Page Type
Uri, Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Mountaineering, Trad Climbing
Time Required:
Most of a day
UIAA III to IV- (YDS 5.3 to 5.5ish)

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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South Ridge
Created On: Jul 15, 2004
Last Edited On: Aug 16, 2007


A trail from the Bergsee hut leads NW to the base of the ridge in about 1 hour.

Route Description

The ridge is comprised of 9 towers plus the summit block. From the base, 6 pitches of UIAA 2 (YDS 4) lead to the base of the first tower, which is climbed directly (UIAA III-) and is very exposed. A pitch of UIAA III+ and IV- leads to the summit of tower 2. A 25m rappel takes you from its summit to the ridge. 3 short pitches (25 to 30m) of UIAA II to IV- leads to the summit of tower 3, another 30 m pitch of UIAA III- (some downclimbing) puts you on top of tower 4. Rappel 25 m to the base of tower 5, which is climbed in 30 m, UIAA III. Rappel 25 m to the base of tower 6, which is climbed in 15m of UIAA II. Rappel 25 m to the base of tower 7, which is climbed in 40 m of UIAA I/II scramble. Downclimb to the base of tower 8. This is the crux of the route. The first pitch is UIAA IV, then traverse to west around the tower to just above the notch (UIAA IV-) at the base of tower 9. Tower 9 is climbed in 2 or 3 pitches - first on the east side up a crack (UIAA III-) then up a dihedral to the ridge crest (UIAA III) and then UIAA III to IV- along the exposed crest to the summit of tower 0. There is a variation from the top of the first pitch directly up the east face to the tower, which is 2 pitches of UIAA V. Rappel 25 m to the base of the summit block. 4 pitches of UIAA II to III- mostly along the crest or on the east side of the ridge takes you to the summit. 5 to 6 hours (at least) from the base of the climb.

The descent route is the SE ridge, which is a simple scramble and boulder hop back to the hut in about 1.5 to 2 hours.

Essential Gear

Much of the protection is fixed. 5 quickdraws, a small rack, several slings and 10 carabiners should be more than adequate. A 50 m rope.

South Ridge

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