I got up to where the Pearly Gates are but there was not enough snow or ice to climb- just crumbling rock. We were the only group on the mountain that day and maybe we should have taken the hint. Perfect weather but perfectly un-climbable near the top. :( I will be trying again the next time I'm in Oregon.
My first climb of Mt. Hood was with Mountaineering Explorer Post 999 of Corvallis, OR. That was in July 1971, while in high school. Have been up the south side a half dozen times, as well up the Castle Crags, Leuthold Couloir and Sandy Headwall routes. All were done 'Back in the Day'.
Solo climb in 9 hours roundtrip after frustrating attempt with RMI on Rainier. Winter wonderland! It had snowed some the last come of days and the entire top of the mountain was plastered with hoar. A true gingerbread castle and some of the most gorgeous mountain sceneries I've experienced.
Congrats on your summit. Do we need snowshoes for Hood in May?
Nice, easy route. Very icy the whole way though.
Had to climb around the 'schrund first, then traverse into the Pearly Gates Couloir since the moat was too big and deep to jump safely.
We successfully made it but this isn't anything I would recommend to climb under dry conditions. Kinda dangerous really. But it made for an exciting climb.
This was the standard route for many years. I took a look at it this year, and that steep water ice was a no go. It used to be so mellow, I even snowboarded it with some freshiez...
Solo climb. June 1999.
This is the route I take first-timers up. Climbed it many times and still enjoy it; a nice way to spend a morning. I've climbed it a few times on a weeknight and went to work the next morning...I'm worthless at work that day, but it's cool to show people photos of that morning's sunset from the top of the state just a few hours after it happened.
Less than two months after my first trip on Mount Hood, I went back solo on June 15 to give my dad a special "Fathers Day" message from the summit. The weather conditions were spectacular. I went up the "Old Chute" and down the original standard "Hogsback" route... I recommend using the "Old Chute" route until/unless the "Hogsback" ridge moves east again (like it was a few years ago) so the traverse would be much less technical.
Went with Timberline Mountain Guides on my first trip up Hood. Unusually good weather for climbing in April. Not a lot of people on the mountain, but they all populated the Hogsback at the same time so there was a nice little gathering of rope teams all trying to get to the Pearly Gates. Snow Bridge well intact. Minor ice and rockfall at the gates. Made the crowded summit at 7:30 a.m. Descent went well until midmorning when we began postholing. Back in time for lunch. Beautiful day all the way around.
great conditions, used the old chute to summit
Might have been too late in the summer. Pearly Gates was a mess. Move fast through Devil's Kitchen or you'll feel like vomiting.
pearly gates looked like trouble waiting to happen (rockfall) so we headed west from the hog and summitted via the old chute....beautiful day....alone on top (seriously)
We had a fantastic sunrise. A great way to start the day! We then decended to avoid the traffic jams on the Mountain.
had the top 2 myself.
One of two times that I've bonked on a mountain. Important tip: cereal is not a wise packing-night dinner. However, after a Subway sandwitch and two hours of sack time I was back to 100% and climbed strong.
OSAT group spent the night at the top of the Palmer, and completed a successful winter ascent the next morning.
This was a weekend of some giant floods in Oregon and Washington, and we had I-5 to ourselves as it was blocked by water near Chehalis and by a landslide along the Columbia.
We, my oldest brother and I, started from Timberline Lodge at 12:00 am. We reached the summit around 6:00 am. The climb up to and through the pearly gates was great, my first real technical snow climb.
While belaying my brother from the bergshrund I got hit by a rock on my cheak. I didn't see or hear it comming and it was about the size of my fist. Luckly all I got was a bloody cheak.
We followed some crazy russians, since this type of climbing is fairly new to my brother and I.
5/19/01-My first attempt at Hood was a lesson in what NOT to do. Packed too much food and extra weight and went in almost brand new La Sportiva Makalus. My heels were bloody and raw by the time we put crampons on just below the top of the Palmer Chair Lift. Was basically limping up the next stretch towards Crater Rock when it started getting really windy. At the base of Crater Rock my friend Mark and I sat to rest and almost fell asleep several times. The wind was almost knocking us over at this point and we decided to turn back as most of the climbers we could see were doing the same. As we descended the wind was strong enough that our rope was held horizontal in the air. Gusts knocked us over a few times and we self-arrested. Once we got back down to the ski area it was okay. Found out later that the winds were about 60-70 mph. Felt bad about not summitting but still think we made the right decision as the mountain was not going anywhere. A few weeks later we did summit in perfect conditions and had a great time doing it.
Posted Nov 21, 2001 9:38 am
6/16/01-I summitted with my friend Mark 6/16 about 7:15 am after doing the traditional trek through the night. Conditions were perfect and there were lots of other headlamps on the long line up. Great views up top although there are a lot of people on the mountain who shouldn't be - people with no ropes or gear thinking it's just a simple hike. This was my second attempt, tried it four weeks earlier and got weathered back down by ridiculously high winds that knocked us off our feet a few times and we had to self-arrest. After this summit though, my face got fried on the way down as I had misplaced sunscreen. Was awesome though. Didn't want to come back down.
2/10/03-Great conditions on a rare weather window in February. Views to Diamond Peak in the south. Sunny but solid conditions. Summited with friend Steve I met in an expedition course last year.
Posted Feb 10, 2003 10:47 am
3/13/04-Headed up with jhalz to do Leuthold Couloir. Got a late start (4:10 am) and had some beta from dkantola that it was a warzone of ice so figured it would be a mess by the time we got there so decided on West Crater Rim instead. When we got just below Crater Rock the sun was already on that one and worried about the slab slides we could see so decided to do South Side instead. My fourth time doing it. Conditions were great except in the Gates where lots of little ice pellets and sugar-like snow had accumulated. Up in 5 hours, down in about 2 hr 45 mins and I was holding up jhalz at that pace. A bit of icefall even in the Chute.
Saw fellow summitposters crirwin on the route and Martin Cash in the parking lot. After talking to Martin, I felt better about not doing Leuthold this time. I MUST get back and do that route though.
Posted Mar 13, 2004 7:43 pm
Route Climbed: well, we tried 2 Date Climbed: February 3, 2005
David Kantola and I tried to do Leuthold during an unbelievable weather window in February. Actually it was too warm. When we hit Illumination Saddle and heard all the ice falling down the Reid, we opted to maybe try a variation of the South Side. Got to the bergschrund at what, 10,800 feet? Ice falling down through the Pearly Gates going both ways around the Hogsback. Decided to not deal with the ice for another South Side summit so headed back down. Conditions were more July-like (see thread) so if you are heading up, you may want to start a couple hours earlier than you think you have to this time of year, at least until we get some real winter conditions in the Oregon Cascades.
Posted Feb 3, 2005 7:34 pm
11/30/08 Went up with Ian in warm conditions to about 10,400 feet. Thin ice everywhere, not much snow yet. Could see blue through the Old Chute. Lots of ice and rock fall in the Steel Cliffs and off Crater Rock. Interesting icy but bubbly crust on the way around Crater Rock. Not sure if it was a slide or just too low snow levels but there was a ridge from the Hogsback to Devils Kitchen I have not seen before. Big gaping mouth of a bergschrund above. Great day but we decided not to go further without having two tools.
5/9/19 With Jessica via Pearly Gates. Quick easy climb but high winds mid-mountain. Super fun time.