We base camped at Illumination saddle with the intent of climbing the Leuthold couloir the next day. We discovered the route was melted out and chose to climb the Mazama chute. Fun climb on a sunny cold day.
Climb to the summit ridge via Hot Rocks.
Easy ascent on iced snow in the morning, glisading down on watery, melting snow at noon. The Old Chute was all ice, but nothing some microspikes couldn't handle. Car to car, 6 hours and 18 minutes.
Only a few parties on mountain this day. Weather was clear and cold. Route was super icy on upper sections. Made the chute feel super fun. Had the summit to myself. Down climbed the chute then snowboarded the rest of the way until needed to walk last few hundred feet to parking lot due to lack of snow.
Trip report https://summitsofthestates.wordpress.com/2013/07/01/mt-hood-oregon-47/
Had soft snow but managed to summit. Great sunrise
Snow was hard. We stayed to the right because there were frozen steps that helped. Most people came down backwards.
Toured up to the top of the old chute, rode back down. The snow sucked but the views were excellent!
started at midnight, hit the steep stuff as the sun was coming out, amazing climb.
I went up on Monday (7/11) and the conditions are great in the mornings, but as soon as the sun starts shining ice started to come loose. There are long snowfall trails coming down from the Pearly Gates route. And the Bergschrund has opened up to cover the majority of the lower route.
The Old Chute route is still in great condition, with ice holding snowpack and allowing easy kick steps. We didn't stop for long at the summit because the winds started picking up.
Very heavy snow year, very late season summit... probably won't get the same opportunity this year
Took a friend up the route. The climbing up top in the chute was fun, although the route was tracked out the whole way. Abysmal weather (wet, cold, and cloudy). We only saw two other climbers on the peak the entire day; they had set up a camp and were doing the route in two days, complete with legitimate Chouinard and Frost laminated bamboo piolets!
Not a difficult route, conditions in the last chute were icy enough that I felt safety necessitated to put on crampons the last 100' or so, but otherwise just cruising. Snowboarded from the summit, again the only issue was the gnar ice in the initial descent couloir, after that it was regular black diamond...
Steep route, though no need for a running belay or anything...
Climbed this in late morning when snow was softer. This route was the primary route used (all but two groups on the day we summitted) in place of the Hogsback/Pearly Gates. It should be noted that the Hogsback is far left of the Pearly Gates this year and the cravasse is very wide at this point. Just an FYI for those reading.
Solo trip to the summit, first of the season. Perfect day for the climb. Very cold till I hit the summit where the sun was waiting...
Left the truck at 2:40am, hit the summit at 8:10am, took my time back to the truck because the weather was soooooo nice.
I had a fun time on the Old Chute, although I did not like the hissing ice. Ewww. But it was a great mountain.
Slept in the back of the rental car in the parking lot. One AM start. Got to the hogback at daybreak, saw a bowling ball size rock break loose and shoot across the traverse to the chute going 40-50mph; saw plenty of tracks in the snow where other rocks had done the same ... had second thoughts. Did not like the idea of going down to stinky hot rocks/fumeroles either. Finally decided to hammer it to the top limiting time in the shooting gallery. Fairly steep snow/ice climb. Knife edge on top was a non-issue. Fireworks on top.
We went up probably too early in the day, in retrospect. We made the summit, but I had to downclimb the steep chute which was a little icy. I kicked some nice steps for others to follow (=
After a rock rejection on Reid Glacier we summitted via South Side in nice weather.
Climbed with Tim & Mike on a beautiful clear, calm night/morning. Stashed my skis around 9,000' and got to bomb back down to Timberline.