Southeast Face

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 44.07683°N / 115.01192°W
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing, Mixed, Scrambling
Seasons Season: Summer, Fall
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.4 (YDS)
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 2
Additional Information Grade: II
Sign the Climber's Log




Southeast Face

SE Face route looking down

This route starts after crossing the SW ridge from the NW side of the peak to the south side. Where a small gulley starts to drop down, find the obvious sloping ramps that run diagonally across the lower SE area. Follow the upper Class 3+, exposed ramp past several trees. Make a short friction move to obtain a higher level and follow this until your under a broken crack chimney. Climb this Class 4 chimney past an old fixed nut to some rap slings. Above the rap slings, the terrain eases. The upper SE Face route is now visible.

Follow a diagonal crack (5.4) under the summit block as it ramps up with a few face moves here and there. At a level spot with another rap sling the last few summit moves are directly above. Make airy, yet easy moves up and over the "beak" rock that slopes down. There's room on the summit for 1, maybe 2 people. The summit contained a summit canister marked "Colorado Mountaineers" with 2 signatures from 1991. There was no pencil in the canister.

Rappel from the summit slings over the route (1 rope), or with 2 ropes rappel directly down to start. First ascent is Carter and Constan in 1957.
Eagles Beak summit look down


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Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.