Southeast Face

Page Type
Idaho, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing, Mixed, Scrambling
Summer, Fall
Time Required:
Most of a day
Rock Difficulty:
5.4 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Page By:
Southeast Face
Created On: Mar 3, 2007
Last Edited On: Mar 3, 2007
Table of Contents

Southeast Face

SE Face route looking down

This route starts after crossing the SW ridge from the NW side of the peak to the south side. Where a small gulley starts to drop down, find the obvious sloping ramps that run diagonally across the lower SE area. Follow the upper Class 3+, exposed ramp past several trees. Make a short friction move to obtain a higher level and follow this until your under a broken crack chimney. Climb this Class 4 chimney past an old fixed nut to some rap slings. Above the rap slings, the terrain eases. The upper SE Face route is now visible.

Follow a diagonal crack (5.4) under the summit block as it ramps up with a few face moves here and there. At a level spot with another rap sling the last few summit moves are directly above. Make airy, yet easy moves up and over the "beak" rock that slopes down. There's room on the summit for 1, maybe 2 people. The summit contained a summit canister marked "Colorado Mountaineers" with 2 signatures from 1991. There was no pencil in the canister.

Rappel from the summit slings over the route (1 rope), or with 2 ropes rappel directly down to start. First ascent is Carter and Constan in 1957.
Eagles Beak summit look down