Cuz I had no mas to solo the east couloir.
Davi Rivas and David Stillman via St. Jeans coulior from Red Lake. Descended St. Jeans with 1200ft glissade(friggin scary).
Approach trail sucks.
... with Bill Kells, Hamik Mukelyan, Julian Jamison and Michael, on 07-08 June' 2008, via the North Slope from the East (class 2)
Camping at Red Lake was beautiful, and the whole route was empty of people. I had the whole mountain to myself on summit day.
Other than that, a peak to bag and leave alone. Difficult trailhead (great directions + Google Earth made it a snap in the 4WD rental), then a steep, deep and loose slog to the summit. One stretch, just before plateauing out, of a few hundred feet of decent rock.
This is one to make on the first try! You'll never catch me here again.
First major spring snow camp/climb. Amazing.
Hike up from Red lakes with some friends.
After hiking up Mather Pass(which was no picnic) decided to hike Split Mtn as well because...it was there. Hell of a day almost 6,0000 ft. of ele. gain and 16 miles most with pack on. Sooo worth it though. I thought the view from Glen pass was sweet. It paled in comparison to Split though. Vaughn and Andy you missed out! Thanks also to the guy who gave me a granola bar and the women who provided the cheese and crackers. Life savers!
The access was the biggest story for us. There's lots of good information out there about both the drive to the trailhead and the trail itself, but we didn't pay enough attention.
So, we took 2 wrong turns that cost us a lot of time on the approach. Once we finally got to the Red Lake TH, we hurried onto the 'trail', only that it wasn't. We spent 2 hours blazing a path on steep, loose, sandy and nasty Class 2/3 terrain until I had enough and said there must be a trail and we need to find it. Found it and the going was much easier but half the party bailed back to the HD and the others went to Red Lake. Party at Red Lake got there just in time for the rain and spent an OK night there and woke up to swirling clouds obscuring the summit and terrain above and decided to head down. Still a beautiful area and fun was had, but the mistakes and the weather meant no summit and the access/approach means we won't be too eager for attempt #2 for some time... :-)
The hardest part of this climb is getting to the trailhead. I scratched the shit out of the sides of my truck (Black Chevy Silverado), but once you get to Red Lake, this is a pretty cool climb. A little loose in the steeper chutes, but not too bad.
An overnight trip from 3 miles below the Red Lake trailhead (the "no trespassing" shortcut helped, but not enough for our poor car). Red Lake is an awesome place to camp.
clear day, spectacular views
Gave up on the original goal of St. Jean Gully when we saw the debris field of rocks that had shot out of it. Changed plans to the North Slope and we weren't disappointed. Climbed a 35-40 degree snow hill for about 750' to gain the north slope, little more than a class 2 like the route description states, but had an axe and crampons so it was no problem. Great view on top, thunder storms had us running off the ridge in the early afternoon.
Ascended the N. slope route via the Red Lake approach. Took some very humbling turns on my splitboard in highly variable snow conditions below the Split-Prater saddle...glad I had the (dis)pleasure of hauling it all the way to 13K.
Reached the summit on our "layover" day while camped at the lake below Mather Pass. Lots of scree but a beautiful summit view on a perfectly clear and windless day.
I spent a week around the Palisade Lakes and Mather Pass just bagging peaks in the area. This was the easy hike up from the John Muir Trail.
Climbed from Red Lake with an SPS group. It was a tough, but enjoyable hike. I really liked the view.
7500 feet in one day... a new personal record - the climb was wonderful though - those cliffs when you first hit the ridge are wicked... and the split part of the mountain up top is wild - I think I am running out of easy 14ers, hmmm...
Soloed the N ridge from Red Lake when Mike hit the wall after climbing Mt Sill the prior day. These were my final two Calif 14ers.
definitely more difficult than i expected but a beautiful mountain. the drive to red lake trailhead was a real treat!