Partner had been up the East Couloir in June four years ago and found ice, so I figured "why not" and decided to go check it out.
Started from camp at Red Lake at 3:30am, soft snow conditions persisted up the glacier - probably never got below 40F at the lake (whose surface ice was melting). Got to schrund around 5:30-6ish - some ice there. We simul'd up to chimney on 45-50 degree soft snow. To climber's right of chimney was a gushing waterfall. Some ice in bottom of chimney, but with big gap and lots of snow; didn't look climbable. Partner led up half of rock route in crampons to climber's left of chimney, then retreated. He reported seeing an ice axe embedded in the couloir above that point.
We downclimbed from there to just above schrund, then crossed to climber's right onto a rock buttress which was slung with a faded rap anchor. Rapping on one of our 60m doubles got us down to the glacier.
Lots of rockfall as the day warmed - saw / heard several in St. Jean's area. Will consider returning in the fall. Trail up to Red Lake is heinous !!
A spicy gully climb with the very hard snow we encountered; it demanded full concentration while cramponing up. It had been unseasonably cold the past three days. I climbed the St. Jean couloir with Brad and Mark. We started up at 4:23am from our camp at Red Lake and summited by 9:50am. BTW, the register is full. Whoever goes next please bring a notepad for the summit register. I screwed up on the descent and went down to the lowest saddle by Prater. Had to climb back up 500 feet to find the correct Red Lake pass (elev ~ 12,950') descent. Reached camp at 12:50pm. Took just 2 hours to hike out back to the Red Lake trailhead (6,568'). We had excellent weather both days.
Great climb and great company! Climbed with Pavel (kovarpa) and Doug (dug). The weather was awesome. Couloir was filled with pretty deep snow, but at least we experienced no rockfall.
Good clear sky with strong wind. Crappy drive to the trailhead. Do not drive in or out in the dark. It'll not be fun. Same applies to the trail. Hard to follow in the dark.
We left a Russian Shopka (a fur hat) up there somewhere on the mountain. If you find it, post, for a laugh. You can keep it. Good weather- the damn trail is difficult to follow- esp. at night with no flashlight.
A pseudo-summit on the way too.
Incredible weather-- warm and clear on top. Views were stunning. Some snow on the North Slope but no equipment needed for the ascent. Fun finding the right road out in the dark -- Tinemaha road definitely the way to go.
easy gully climb with soft snow
Very windy on the hike in. Calmed after sunset. A lot of talus all the way from Red Lake to the summit. Well consolidated as far as Sierra talus goes, though. 9 hours round trip from Red Lake. Great day and nice summit.
My husband Dan and I hiked in over Taboose Pass to Upper Basin. We hiked up Split Mountain from there. What an incredible view from the summit! A beautiful day.
Solo Dayhike. CA 14er - # 12. Afternoon snow flurry near the summit added some excitment to the laborious hike.
Thanks to party members: Bob, Joe, Phil and Karen who shared the summit with me. On this 9-11 we acknowledged those who lost thier lives on 9-11-01 and we honored those who fight for the freedom we have to make our summit sojourns. It was beautiful on top, we could see for miles in all directions. Trip Info: Friday we drove to the trail head via the Tinemaha Campground route which took about one hour from 395. Saturday we hiked for over 5 hours from trailhead to Red Lake. Sunday 9-11 we left Red Lake at 6:00 a.m, summited a little after 11:00, started down at 12:00 noon, got back to Red Lake a little after 3:00 p.m., broke camp and made it back to the trail head around 9:00 p.m.
Very enjoyable climb on a beautiful day.
Dayhiked this, starting at 9 AM, back at 6:40 PM. Thunderstorm on the summit and got lost in the vegetation on way down. Beautiful area!
A very moderate route with a trick schrund crossing when we were there. We did some 5.8ish rock to the right to get by.
Beautiful hike. Left Red Lake at 4:00am and reached the summit at 10:00am. Stayed an hour on top and back down by 2:00pm.
Starting at 3:00 am and fought fatigue as well as some surprisngly lush vegetation along the way. A beautiful hike. Note - take the Tinemaha route out if you want to spare your high clearance vehicle some major abuse.
Dayhiked with Courney and Susan. It was our first time up the Red Lake trail and we followed the first 4 miles by headlamp. The summit was socked in but nothing ever materialised. Next time I'm taking a mountail bike from the Tinemaha campgroud the the TH.
What an awesome area! Beautiful weather on the way up, wind and snow storm on the way down! Great experience! Climbed with madclimber.
Climbed and skied north slope. Trip Report