Standard Route overview

Standard Route from below. Start is just out of frame to the right at bottom (boulder with trees for anchors). Very short pitch to the first belay inside the big cave just above the climber in red. (Fixed gear inside the cave.) Choice of exiting the cave to the left, or to the right (the "window" - a bit of a squeeze but actually a slightly easier route) - or even climbing the pillar.

Once past the cave (this vertical section is the crux), find a safe spot to set up a belay station. My guidebook implies you would just stand on a bulge in the middle of the flow, but we followed the previous two parties to the trees at the right edge - see standing climber in yellow and grey. (Also a short pitch, but communication into the cave is difficult.)

From there, aim left to avoid the big overhang, and top out into trees (full 60m rope length if you're belaying from the trees at the right edge). Angling right instead would be a mixed variation - presumed more difficult (didn't try it but the party ahead of us, who had been climbing well, backed off it).

We found rappel rings at each of the three belay stations we used, but the standard descent is to walk to the right along the top of the cliff until you find a snow gully to descend.


No comments posted yet.