west ridge, solo. After getting in to Chicago Basin the afternoon/eve before, Dad worn out, so did this one alone- wanted to do this after guy on Wilson Peak recommended it, & recon’ed that Dad wouldn’t be enjoying the 4th class too much. Left campsite (~10,750’-10,900’) @ 6.53. Made good time- just below notch & start of route @ 9.00. Beginning above notch was definitely crux of route. Rest was easier. Summit blocks not too bad either. Summited @ 10.08. Heard voices shortly after, but when couldn’t see them below, looked up & realized climbers on the spire! When saw leader top out, I was initially envious, but then just enjoyed watching. In racing to repeat summit moves so camera timer could get me, ended up breaking CO Native bottle :( Luckily still had Avery 15.8% ale in bag- more careful next attempt yielded good summit shot w/ beer. Enjoyed phenomenal views from just below summit block. Up 1 last time, then left @ 11.40. Mellow descent down standard route. Back @ camp @ 14.14. I'd recommend the W ridge over the standard route to anyone seeking a more sustained, aesthetic, & fun 4th-class route.
together with Windom.
Duchess stayed below the main summit, fun scramble and fun stand on its small top.
Climbed Eolus, waited out a storm at Twin Lakes for 4 hours, ran up Sunlight and had to wait out 3 more storms and finally summitted at 6pm. Took my shoes off for summit block due to wet rock. Not that exposed. Then did Windom at 7:30pm
Climbed with Eolus and Windom enroute from Chicago Basin to Ruby Basin. After the quality route on Eolus, this one wasn't much fun. The summit was the only memorable part.
Had a bit of a rough start with nausea and rain competing for the summit. Pushed through the sickness and waited out the storm for a successful summit. Chose not to climb that last rock since I wasn't at 100%, but touched the summit. Came back to my poles and pack I had left at the notch to find a marmot had made a tasty snack out of one of my pole handles... :)
Climbed with Paul Wenger ... then over to Windom. Perfect trip!
8th 14er this year.
We waited out two days of rain in the Chicago Basin... finally went for it on the third day despite morning showers. Turned back at the gully when a thunderstorm came in fast. Waited that out and summited in the early afternoon. I was on the summit block when small hail started falling from a wandering cloud. Got down quick and climbed a second time with my partner, PhenomenalWoman, in blue skies and sunshine. Sat on the summit rock and took a leap of faith.
My sixteenth wedding anniversary!
The summit was nice, and the gully not as bad as feared. End of a day-trip from Purgatory. Trip report.
with Tim, camped in Chicago Basin
Like a pony
Yeah, lots of fun doing the west ridge loop. Summit was fun too, easier than I anticipated.
Climbed this after windom. A little route finding and then the summit block. I touched the top but did not stand on it. Beautiful area
I spent 4 incredible and wet days backpacking around solo with a tiny tarp and a bivy sac (at times hooking up with some great people I encountered, but at other times having whole drainages to myself) from Elk Park to Chicago Basin, climbed Eolus on day 5, and on day 6 did Sunlight and Windom and went down to the train, which was delayed indefinitely (but turned out to only be a couple hours) due to two rock/mudslides. This was the only day of my trip that wasn't clear in the morning; it wasn't too clear what the clouds were going to do, so even my 7:30 am summit time didn't necessarily seem too early, but the lighting for the views up there at that time of day was out of this world gorgeous! The chute was nasty, but at least it gets you up and down fast. The class 3 part was super fun, with the chimneys and the window. I watched a guy run up and down the final block, then I watched his dad slip attempting to do the same. I'd been sick and slept poorly on my trip, and felt too wobbly to safely attempt it.
The Twin Lakes (upper) basin is absolutely beautiful. Once the scree gully slog is over, this is a very enjoyable scramble. The final summit block made my mouth dry, though. I don't care what other folks think of it...my knees were shaking for 10 minutes after I got back down to the summit marker / register area. I took the "leap of faith" descent like a cat - on all fours, Spider Man style.
Started up from camp in Chicago Basin at 6:26AM with my friend Bob and reached a very tiny but rewarding peak summit boulder at 10:36. Crowded with six CMC members so had to wait a bit for "my turn". Then headed over to Windom Peak at 11:02. An absolutely beautiful day, crystal clear all-around and my 55th 14'er....Sweet!
Once you get past 13500 the climb turns into a nice scramble with a fun move onto the summit block.