Great climbing experience. This mountain is true wilderness adventure.
This is one of the coolest looking 14ers that I have climbed so far!! After summiting I headed for Windom Peak to meet Zach and Erica and to complete the 3rd peak of a very successfull weekend!!
Didn't think I'd make the summit block, but I with some encouragement, I stood triumphant. A trip report is available here.
Summmited Eolus, then N Eolus and then over to Sunlight. Routefinding is key on this peak and we managed to get off route a few times and this put us into 4th and 5th class climbing. We got pretty close to the summit along the ridge that connects the spire and were faced with about 20 ft vertical class 5 wall. I went ahead and climbed it without any protection and thinking about it today gave me chills. The actual summit block was alot of fun and I had heard of a guy who did the Daniel San pose on the summit so I thought I'd give it a try.
Summitted at 5 PM 12 hours after leaving Purgatory on a 22 hour day hike. I summitted Eolus about noon and Windom about 6:30 PM in dry weather. Went up nice slabs to the wrong side of the ridge (toward Sunlight Spire) and met up with some rock climbers who offered me a belay up a chimney, but after 90 minutes we realized it would be easier to traverse around to the other side of the ridge on class 3/4 rock. The move onto the summit block was tricky but not as hard or scary as I imagined. The hardest move is just after the register where you climb a 45 deg. slab up 10 ft. It is easier if you get some momentum and grab the top edge. From there you can traverse right, get on top, then step across the gap and mantle up onto the summit. Trip report.
Great summit. Final boulder hop is excilarating! Left for Windom
Not very hard untill summit boulder!
Climbed Windom Peak first then up scree field to Sunlight. Some of the old 14er books say you can camp at Twin Lakes. This is no longer true which means a steep headwall climb first thing in the morning. Mountain goats galore at Twin Lakes and also down in the basin in everyone's basecamp.