Route Climbed: Red Coulior Date Climbed: August 26, 1998
Camped at Chicago basin first night, then made the climb to the upper basin for the second night just under Eolus. Summited Sunlight and Windom, leaving Eolus for the next day. Unfortunatly my girlfriend got a touch of Altitude sickness, and while she encouraged me to do Eulous without her, I was a good boyfriend and we hiked out. So, I'll have to go back! It's a wonderful hike, and the solitude is great!
Watch out for Marmots! A funny story: (No This is NOT an Advert. for Marmot Mtn Works!) When we were approching our tent after summitting, we heard some rustling from within. As we got closer (Ice axes at the ready of course) a couple of large Marmots came scurrying out of the tent.
Upon arriving at the tent and inspeting the damage, they had cut a hole in our Tent, (North Face), torn up a couple shirts (North Face), my girlfriend's sports-bra, (yep, you guessed it, also North Face), and tore a North Face jacket.
What was not touched: Two Marmot Mtn Works down sleeping bags, a Marmot Mtn Wrks coat, and a Marmot Mtn works T-shit as well as some long underwear.
I guess they [marmots] didn't like the competition!
Anyway, its a beautiful climb, and I am looking forward to my return when I will complete Eolus! The train ride is really cool!
Route Climbed: South Slopes Date Climbed: August 7, 2005
One of the most enjoyable 14ers I've done to date. Lots of fun class 3 scrambling through big clunky blocks. The view when you pop outa the keyhole is amazing. The last few hops to the final summit block are kinda exposed. Didn't use a rope, but jumping down from the summit blocks made my palms all sweaty like a schoolgirl. Seemed to be multiple routes on the south slopes. There are cairns everywhere, routefinding is quite easy.
Route Climbed: Red couloir Date Climbed: July 21, 2005
Climbed in combo with Windom. Snow, snow, and more snow! Bring your Yaxtrax (crampons are overkill) gators, ice axe AND something to use for glissading.
Crowded Chicago basin was lacking for available campsites and the mountain goats are downright agressive. Be sure to check out the old mine on the left side right after the main crossing of the stream.
Route Climbed: South Slope Date Climbed: July 15 2004
I climbed this in combination with Mount Eolus and I wanted to climb Windom but weather set in as we summitted Sunlight. This was a day hike as a part of a larger backpacking trip. The climb was tough but the summit block wasnt, I easily gained access to it and spent a good share of my summit time up there. I love these 3 peaks, they are remote and a blast to climb.
Route Climbed: south slopes Date Climbed: July 1995
Early morning snow climb (1995 was a big snow year) from our camp site at 12,400'. Good conditions - did Sunlight, Windom and Eolus, then moved campsite back down into the trees. Climbed with Aaron P. Enjoyed the train ride.
Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: 11 Sep 2004
Climbed up the classic West Ridge in beautiful weather. Snow on the northern aspects complicated things slightly at the start, but most of the route was a real joy and a lot better than the slog up the South Face!
Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: September 2, 2001
This is one of the coolest looking 14ers that I have climbed so far!! After summiting I headed for Windom Peak to meet Zach and Erica and to complete the 3rd peak of a very successfull weekend!!
Route Climbed: All over the place Date Climbed: July 13,2003
Summmited Eolus, then N Eolus and then over to Sunlight. Routefinding is key on this peak and we managed to get off route a few times and this put us into 4th and 5th class climbing. We got pretty close to the summit along the ridge that connects the spire and were faced with about 20 ft vertical class 5 wall. I went ahead and climbed it without any protection and thinking about it today gave me chills. The actual summit block was alot of fun and I had heard of a guy who did the Daniel San pose on the summit so I thought I'd give it a try.
Route Climbed: South slopes and E ridge from Purgatory Date Climbed: July 14, 2003
Summitted at 5 PM 12 hours after leaving Purgatory on a 22 hour day hike. I summitted Eolus about noon and Windom about 6:30 PM in dry weather. Went up nice slabs to the wrong side of the ridge (toward Sunlight Spire) and met up with some rock climbers who offered me a belay up a chimney, but after 90 minutes we realized it would be easier to traverse around to the other side of the ridge on class 3/4 rock. The move onto the summit block was tricky but not as hard or scary as I imagined. The hardest move is just after the register where you climb a 45 deg. slab up 10 ft. It is easier if you get some momentum and grab the top edge. From there you can traverse right, get on top, then step across the gap and mantle up onto the summit. Trip report.
Route Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: August 31, 2002
Climbed Windom Peak first then up scree field to Sunlight. Some of the old 14er books say you can camp at Twin Lakes. This is no longer true which means a steep headwall climb first thing in the morning. Mountain goats galore at Twin Lakes and also down in the basin in everyone's basecamp.
POWERJL - Aug 18, 2005 4:04 pm
Route Climbed: Red Coulior Date Climbed: August 26, 1998Camped at Chicago basin first night, then made the climb to the upper basin for the second night just under Eolus. Summited Sunlight and Windom, leaving Eolus for the next day. Unfortunatly my girlfriend got a touch of Altitude sickness, and while she encouraged me to do Eulous without her, I was a good boyfriend and we hiked out. So, I'll have to go back! It's a wonderful hike, and the solitude is great!
Watch out for Marmots! A funny story: (No This is NOT an Advert. for Marmot Mtn Works!) When we were approching our tent after summitting, we heard some rustling from within. As we got closer (Ice axes at the ready of course) a couple of large Marmots came scurrying out of the tent.
Upon arriving at the tent and inspeting the damage, they had cut a hole in our Tent, (North Face), torn up a couple shirts (North Face), my girlfriend's sports-bra, (yep, you guessed it, also North Face), and tore a North Face jacket.
What was not touched: Two Marmot Mtn Works down sleeping bags, a Marmot Mtn Wrks coat, and a Marmot Mtn works T-shit as well as some long underwear.
I guess they [marmots] didn't like the competition!
Anyway, its a beautiful climb, and I am looking forward to my return when I will complete Eolus! The train ride is really cool!
Jeff Power
Brenna Owen
jhansen007 - Aug 13, 2005 10:18 pm
Route Climbed: South Slopes Date Climbed: August 7, 2005One of the most enjoyable 14ers I've done to date. Lots of fun class 3 scrambling through big clunky blocks. The view when you pop outa the keyhole is amazing. The last few hops to the final summit block are kinda exposed. Didn't use a rope, but jumping down from the summit blocks made my palms all sweaty like a schoolgirl. Seemed to be multiple routes on the south slopes. There are cairns everywhere, routefinding is quite easy.
mtnhiker13 - Aug 12, 2005 3:34 pm
Route Climbed: red colouir and class 4 Date Climbed: August 7, 2005We managed to get into the class 4 climbing near the summit and we loved it! The final jump to the summit rock was exilirating. Loved this mountain.
Gareth - Aug 9, 2005 11:15 pm
Route Climbed: South Slopes Date Climbed: August 3, 2005Lots of fun! Be sure to look carefully for the route near the top. Defiantly the most thrilling summit to stand up on!
jvoss - Aug 1, 2005 1:15 pm
Route Climbed: Red couloir Date Climbed: July 21, 2005Climbed in combo with Windom. Snow, snow, and more snow! Bring your Yaxtrax (crampons are overkill) gators, ice axe AND something to use for glissading.
Crowded Chicago basin was lacking for available campsites and the mountain goats are downright agressive. Be sure to check out the old mine on the left side right after the main crossing of the stream.
Climb on!
highadventure15 - Jul 4, 2005 12:16 pm
Route Climbed: South Slope Date Climbed: July 15 2004I climbed this in combination with Mount Eolus and I wanted to climb Windom but weather set in as we summitted Sunlight. This was a day hike as a part of a larger backpacking trip. The climb was tough but the summit block wasnt, I easily gained access to it and spent a good share of my summit time up there. I love these 3 peaks, they are remote and a blast to climb.
Larry V - Feb 6, 2005 11:27 pm
Route Climbed: south slopes Date Climbed: July 1995Early morning snow climb (1995 was a big snow year) from our camp site at 12,400'. Good conditions - did Sunlight, Windom and Eolus, then moved campsite back down into the trees. Climbed with Aaron P. Enjoyed the train ride.
bakcast - Nov 17, 2004 9:59 pm
Route Climbed: South Slopes Date Climbed: August 2001There is nothing quite like looking off of the NF into the beutiful Needles!
bc44caesar - Sep 15, 2004 8:53 am
Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: 11 Sep 2004Climbed up the classic West Ridge in beautiful weather. Snow on the northern aspects complicated things slightly at the start, but most of the route was a real joy and a lot better than the slog up the South Face!
DaveC - May 21, 2004 9:37 pm
Route Climbed: red couloir Date Climbed: sept 99had the day to myself, this late in the year. came over from windom, and the weather held for a late (3pm) summit. just me and the marmot.
f360driver - Apr 14, 2004 6:52 pm
Route Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: August/03Great climbing experience. This mountain is true wilderness adventure.
coloradoiceclimber - Apr 10, 2004 5:34 pm
Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: September 2, 2001This is one of the coolest looking 14ers that I have climbed so far!! After summiting I headed for Windom Peak to meet Zach and Erica and to complete the 3rd peak of a very successfull weekend!!
RyanS - Apr 9, 2004 5:39 pm
Route Climbed: standard Date Climbed: July 3, 2003Didn't think I'd make the summit block, but I with some encouragement, I stood triumphant. A trip report is available here.
xskier77 - Feb 1, 2004 9:44 pm
Route Climbed: All over the place Date Climbed: July 13,2003Summmited Eolus, then N Eolus and then over to Sunlight. Routefinding is key on this peak and we managed to get off route a few times and this put us into 4th and 5th class climbing. We got pretty close to the summit along the ridge that connects the spire and were faced with about 20 ft vertical class 5 wall. I went ahead and climbed it without any protection and thinking about it today gave me chills. The actual summit block was alot of fun and I had heard of a guy who did the Daniel San pose on the summit so I thought I'd give it a try.
Matt Mahoney - Jul 27, 2003 10:32 pm
Route Climbed: South slopes and E ridge from Purgatory Date Climbed: July 14, 2003Summitted at 5 PM 12 hours after leaving Purgatory on a 22 hour day hike. I summitted Eolus about noon and Windom about 6:30 PM in dry weather. Went up nice slabs to the wrong side of the ridge (toward Sunlight Spire) and met up with some rock climbers who offered me a belay up a chimney, but after 90 minutes we realized it would be easier to traverse around to the other side of the ridge on class 3/4 rock. The move onto the summit block was tricky but not as hard or scary as I imagined. The hardest move is just after the register where you climb a 45 deg. slab up 10 ft. It is easier if you get some momentum and grab the top edge. From there you can traverse right, get on top, then step across the gap and mantle up onto the summit. Trip report.
rmjwinters - Oct 5, 2002 9:17 pm
Route Climbed: Chicago Basin and West face Date Climbed: July 23 1999Great summit. Final boulder hop is excilarating! Left for Windom
climbcolorado - Aug 18, 2002 4:58 pm
Route Climbed: South Slopes Date Climbed: 8/09/02Not very hard untill summit boulder!
ctruscot - Jul 4, 2002 8:08 am
Route Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: August 31, 2002Climbed Windom Peak first then up scree field to Sunlight. Some of the old 14er books say you can camp at Twin Lakes. This is no longer true which means a steep headwall climb first thing in the morning. Mountain goats galore at Twin Lakes and also down in the basin in everyone's basecamp.