Sunshine Wall. Twin Cracks...

Sunshine Wall. Twin Cracks Area. This is a view up "Party in your Pants" (5.8). Take a bunch of cams!

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Martin Cash

Martin Cash - Mar 3, 2004 10:07 am - Voted 10/10

Nice photos man.

Thanks for the contribution to the page! Looks like you had fun. Isn't Party in Your Pants a GREAT route. I just love that one. What else did you climb besides these two?

vertx

vertx - Mar 3, 2004 11:42 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Nice photos man.

We climbed a number of routes ... some I do not have names for. One was the route that used to be behind Herm's Pillar. It was a 5.7. However, the pillar has recently fallen over and the route behind it is a long run-out scary 5.10a (so said a little sign someone placed at the bottom... I lead it and though it was harder than that). We did Justified Ancients of Mu Mu" 5.9 and "Hakuna Matata" which I think is a 5.10C. We also did the south corner of Agaltha's Tower which I don't know the rating but guessed at 5.9. I think we did 7 or 8 routes total.



Next time you will have to join us!

Martin Cash

Martin Cash - Mar 3, 2004 1:24 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Nice photos man.

Definetely man. Hakuna Matata is a 5.10B, looks like a fun route, haven't tried it. I've done the south corner of Agathla, that's a fun one.



How many pieces did your partner place on Party in Your Pants? I think I placed 10 or 11 pices, the first time I lead it. It is quite long and sustained!

farkenclimbin

farkenclimbin - Mar 3, 2004 5:38 pm - Voted 10/10

Great photos!

I'm diggin' all the new photos.

vertx

vertx - Mar 3, 2004 8:08 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Great photos!

Thanks -- When are you coming up to climb with us?

Martin Cash

Martin Cash - Mar 3, 2004 6:44 pm - Voted 10/10

Can you say runout?

Good thing he didn't fall. Look at that up there! If you're just using quickdraws, you should put all the pro in the same crack too. Sorry about the critique. That would have been a nasty fall. He might have died if he fell just before the top. He would have imparted side forces on the pieces rotating them right at the moment of maximum fall factor, with that side to side placements with no runners. Be careful out there man, no more Kropps.



vertx

vertx - Mar 3, 2004 8:21 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Can you say runout?

Yea, we talked about that... All those placements are cams (except 1) which would have helped in the event of a fall. Good suggestion. There is acutally 3 more placements above the last one really visible in the shot. Basically 1 every 8-10 feet.



Hey ... have you seen that sign there that says: Two thumbs up at the top. Gorgan Lives. 1966-2002? Its over in the area of Justified Acients of Mu Mu I think. It is a little freaky if you ask me. Decided not to climb the route iwhere it was.

Martin Cash

Martin Cash - Mar 4, 2004 10:13 am - Voted 10/10

Re: Can you say runout?

Oh yes. That sign is right at the base of Air Guitar 10a, which is the route Goran died on. I agree that it is spooky. I haven't been up Air Guitar yet. Saving it for an onsite lead, when I'm a lot stronger.



Glad to hear there are placements at the top. If you decide to lead PIYP, one thing of note. There are quite a few constrictions, you can place lots of passive pro. Bring hexes 7 to 11 if you got em. There are many bomber placements, that are way better than the typical cam placement.



P.S. Interested in doing some local climbing on Sunday? Maybe Post Falls or Minne? Weather is looking good.

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