FA: Andre Kiryanov and Shay Har-Noy July 2008 at 5.10 A0
Sweet Carillon is a new route on the east face of Mt. Carillon that offers beautiful Yosemite style cracks along with significant exposure. It ascends continuous crack systems up towards the main headwall and then trends left toward the summit dihedrals.
Go out there and get the FFA!
The classic pitch 9 dihedral
Approach as for the Cleaver
. Head up the N. Fork trail from Whitney Portal and upon arriving at Lower Boy Scout Lake (when you get to the 'No Wood Burning' sign) head right up the faint trail. Once you see the Cleaver ahead of you, Mt. Carillon will be on your left.
You will see a big headwall up high with an orange streak running down the middle of it.
Start at the top of the scree at the base of the east face to the right of the gully, where the scree makes an upside down “V”.
Pitch 0: Scramble up some 4th class angling right until you reach a small slanted ledge.
Pitch 1: Climb up and right to an obvious crack that soon becomes a left facing dihedral/open book. Surmount a small roof and traverse left on face holds to small stance to belay at the base of a knobby flake.
Pitch 2: Climb a beautiful knobby flake (5.7) and then the large right facing dihedral (5.10-). Belay at the ledge at the top of the dihedral.
Pitch 3 - “The Unlikely Traverse”: Place pro above the belay and face climb left (5.8) below the roof until you hit the arete. Pull the roof by reaching way right and getting into the wide crack (hint: you can place a bomber piece before committing to the move). Climb the offwidth for 30′ until it pinches off (5.10+) and then use the face holds to move right and set up a belay. An alternative crack can be found just to the right of the offwidth and may provide easier passage.
Pitch 4: Climb up a flared crack for 20′ (5.7) and then trend left on easier ground towards the gully. Downclimb into the gully and set up a belay at the base of a giant cave.
Pitch 5: Trend left on blocky terrain (5.5) until you reach a big ledge. Either climb the 8′ tall dihedral on the far left side of the ledge or face climb on yellow rock on the right side of the ledge (5.10-). Belay on a large ledge at the base of a short offwidth at a one bolt belay.
Pitch 6: Climb the short offwidth and set up a belay at the next ledge (60′).
Pitch 7 “Raised Hair Traverse”: Rather than continuing up the squeeze chimney face climb left and downclimb a bit to get around the arete on good holds (5.7 exposed! - do the follower a favor by placing plenty of gear). Keep traversing left around an orange block and until you reach a series of ledges/blocks. Climb up and belay at a big ledge at the base of a short blocky dihedral.
Pitch 8: Climb the blocky dihedral (5.8) and head left up a few large steps and a left facing dihedral (5.7). Belay on the ledge just above with the classic yosemite style dihedral looming above you.
Pitch 9 - “Classic Dihedral”: Climb the beautiful Yosemite/Indian Creek style dihedral as it slowly tightens up from hands to fingers. Make sure your partner doesn’t try to steal this pitch from you. If you so choose you can keep climbing past the offwidth to a belay on a ledge at the base of a wide splitter.
Pitch 10: Climb the wide splitter (5.8) and then trend left up easy terrain.
Pitch 11: Easy climbing up and right leads you to the summit ridge.
Sweet Carillon Topo
Single set of nuts, double set of cams to #2 C4, single #3 C4, single #5 C4
TR from first ascent available on pullharder.org