ZackN - Sep 18, 2014 5:47 am Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2014
SW Ridge from Cab. de Arpitettaz
Had a bit of an adventure, I wouldn't recommend the route in "Mud Season" unless all climbers in the party are super confident, there was a lot of loose crap on the the north side of the arete for most of the way. The 4th class stuff on the arete was actually pretty good, there are a couple of pins in place but it could be nice to have a small rack from .4 - 2 camalot or so.
We descended north towards the cabane de tracuit and then took a scree run and glissade down the west face and snowfield, which was very efficient but beware of potential rock fall from the ridge.
There is a good trail towards Zinal the runs parallel to the river so no reason to climb back up to join the trail from the cabane de tracuit.
John Climber - Aug 30, 2014 1:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2014
Acclimatisation
An easy and confortable ascend as preparation for higher and more difficult enterprises. Excellent weather conditions and very close crevasses at the glacier.
ZackN - Sep 18, 2014 5:47 am Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2014
SW Ridge from Cab. de ArpitettazHad a bit of an adventure, I wouldn't recommend the route in "Mud Season" unless all climbers in the party are super confident, there was a lot of loose crap on the the north side of the arete for most of the way. The 4th class stuff on the arete was actually pretty good, there are a couple of pins in place but it could be nice to have a small rack from .4 - 2 camalot or so.
We descended north towards the cabane de tracuit and then took a scree run and glissade down the west face and snowfield, which was very efficient but beware of potential rock fall from the ridge.
There is a good trail towards Zinal the runs parallel to the river so no reason to climb back up to join the trail from the cabane de tracuit.
John Climber - Aug 30, 2014 1:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2014
AcclimatisationAn easy and confortable ascend as preparation for higher and more difficult enterprises. Excellent weather conditions and very close crevasses at the glacier.
Joerg Marretsch - Jul 8, 2007 12:07 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2007
Normal route from Cabane de TracuitInstead of Bishorn. Reach the summit in severe winter conditions (snow strom).