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1706 Hits
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73.06% Score
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3 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Route Type:
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Sport Climbing |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.7 (YDS) |
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Number of Pitches:
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3 |
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Overview
The climber who put this route up in 2012, Matt Selman, gave the climb a 5.7 rating, and that is currently the consensus grade on MP, but be aware that several users there have graded it 5.7+ to 5.8+. This is because of the steep, stout start of P3. While I can see the 5.8 suggestion, the holds were plentiful and huge and I thus can't disagree with 5.7. However, that pitch is probably not for a newer 5.8 or even 5.7 leader.
One user even rates it 5.8+ PG 13, but I do not understand that at all. The entire route is well-bolted, and I never felt that I was on run-out terrain or that there were objective hazards, especially in the stiffer sections.
From the obvious pullout, drop into a drainage and cross it and then find a climber's trail that takes you all the way to the base of the route. The approach is 10-15 minutes.
P1-- AKA Vena Cava. About 100', bolted belay. 5.5.
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P2-- AKA Left Ventricle. About 80', bolted belay. Trends up and left, so have a plan if you're a party of three, which the party of three I encountered at the base did not. 5.6.
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P3-- AKA Tachycardia. This is the pitch you want to lead. About 100', bolted belay. Crux comes at the start on a well-protected bulge. Skip the first set of anchors you come to and continue up easy 5th class with one bolt to the summit. You can also follow three bolts up and left to rappel anchors.
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Descent-- Don't rap off the summit anchors. Instead, walk a little west, negotiate a gap, and find a set of chains. Rap off them to the P2 belay and then rap to the ground, ending up in a gully around the corner from the start. For this you need a 60 or longer.
Other gear: I can't remember how many clips there were per pitch, but on the MP page the developer and FAist says to bring 12 draws, so have at least 12 draws. You'll also need gear for anchors at bolted belays, and you'll need a rope 60m or longer.