TEMPLE CRAG, Moon Goddess Arete, In Winter

TEMPLE CRAG, Moon Goddess Arete, In Winter

Page Type Page Type: Trip Report
Date Date Climbed/Hiked: Mar 19, 2010
Activities Activities: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Winter
Some 25 years ago, Miguel Carmona and I (Alois Smrz) attempted the Swiss Arete on Mt. Sill in winter. While skiing by Temple Crag, I had the foolish notion of mentioning the Moon Goddess Arete as yet another possibility for a winter climb. We dismissed the idea right there and it remained just another crazy thought which would never see the time of day. But about three years ago, Miguel brought up the climb again. The approach was reasonable, we knew the route from climbing it in the summer and if the conditions were absolutely perfect, we could attempt it. So for the last three years in the winter months, we have been eyeing the weather, packing and unpacking gear and failing to anticipate the perfect weather window. Every year this mad idea seemed further from coming to fruition. It was with some desperation, that we finally decided to just go for it last week.
Moon Goddess Arete in Winter Miguel Carmona (L) and I starting from Glacier Lodge Road 3-18-2010.
Penelope May kindly helped us with our heavy carry to the Third Lake and from there Miguel and I started at 4 AM on March 19, 2010. We had two thin ropes, rock gear, helmets, winter boots and rock shoes, spare heavy gloves each, one pack, slings, harnesses, down jackets, Gore-Tex tops and bottoms, short ice tool and crampons each. Miguel secured some 20 Power Bar Gels for energy and we had one quart of water between us.
Moon Goddess Arete in winter Penelope May carrying our heavy gear below Temple Crag.
Moon Goddess Arete in winter Approaching the Third Lake.
We snow shoed to the base of the route and had to rope up right at the start of the traverse. The snow was unconsolidated, deep and our steps very insecure. The severe wind that was blowing all day made for very cold climbing. We roped 10 pitches just to get to the 1st Tower and reached the Ibrium Tower by 1 PM.
Moon Goddess Arete in winter Miguel at the starting traverse at 6:00 AM
Moon Goddess Arete in winter On the initial ridge below the 1st Tower
Moon Goddess Arete in winter Mixed rock with a couple of long snow fields
Moon Goddess Arete in winter Full winter conditions and a strong wind on the Arete
Moon Goddess Arete in winter Still low on the Arete but finally on dry rock
Moon Goddess Arete in winter Climbing up to the 1st Tower
Moon Goddess Arete in winter On the short traverse to the base of the 1st Tower
Moon Goddess Arete in winter The 1st Tower traverse
There, prudent thinking could have dictated a quick retreat, but we both felt we needed to keep going. Another 6 pitches of good rock got us to the short rappel at about 7:30 PM. The daylight was gone at this point. Two large towers above us remained to be climbed in the total darkness of a moonless night. Miguel did some outstanding work, weaving his way up the towers illuminated by his headlamp while I struggled with the technical terrain and the 25lb. pack. We reached the top of the route at 11 PM some 17 hours after we started climbing. The steep snow field dropping down to Contact Pass was frozen with sections of a deep and unconsolidated snow. It took us hours to down climb it. Finding the elusive and tiny rap anchors in a sea of snow and rocks just above Contact Pass was our goal. We belayed the last 300 feet or so of the steep mixed terrain. With Miguel’s good memory, a lot of searching, and some luck, we found the rap anchors, down climbed to them and then spent what seemed like an eternity setting up the rap. The wind was so bad that our ropes kept flying all over the wall and the tangled mess made us re-do the set up several times.
Moon Goddess Arete in winter Miguel is climbing up to the Ibrium Tower
Moon Goddess Arete in winter Miguel on the crux 5.8 section of the Ibrium Tower
Moon Goddess Arete in winter Looking down the start of the key section of the Ibrium Tower
Moon Goddess Arete in winter Miguel starting the Tower traverse
Moon Goddess Arete in winter Climbing back up to the Arete
Moon Goddess Arete in winter The last few moves to reach the Arete
Moon Goddess Arete in winter Miguel leading below the crest of the Arete
But eventually, we rapped safely down to the Pass and from there, with crampons and ice axes descended to the Third Lake. We reached our tent at 6 AM Saturday, some 26 hours after we started. All in all, we roped 21 pitches of technical climbing and several hundred feet of roped descent. Penelope, who snow shoed up very early in the morning from Glacier Lodge, thinking that we couldn’t have gone up there in the horrible wind, woke us up with much appreciated offers of food but unfortunately after only three hours of hard sleep.
Moon Goddess Arete in winter We must have done something worthwhile to end up looking like this.
After snowshoeing down to the end of the road by Glacier Lodge, an afternoon was spent there by our vehicles chatting happily and consuming incredible quantities of food, coffee and fruits. Thank you Miguel and Penelope for yet another marvelous trip. This could be the First Winter Ascent of the route. I don’t know of anyone who climbed the route in the winter prior to our ascent and the various High Sierra Guidebooks do not show a winter ascent of the route.
Moon Goddess Arete in winter Thank you Penelope, for all your help!


Post a Comment
Viewing: 1-20 of 42

EricChu - Mar 26, 2010 5:04 pm - Voted 10/10

Great report!

And the pictures are great - especially the "Moon goddess arête in winter"!


Snowball - Mar 26, 2010 5:35 pm - Hasn't voted


nice work! u guys rocked it!!! good write up and photos to boot.


JedSMG - Mar 26, 2010 5:39 pm - Voted 9/10

Very Nice work!

Well done! Those are serious efforts. A friend did the Sun Ribbon in January of 08, and he's still not recovered :-).


cp0915 - Mar 26, 2010 5:51 pm - Voted 10/10

Most excellent!


Sam Page

Sam Page - Mar 26, 2010 5:53 pm - Hasn't voted


Very impressive, especially for someone who is 61 years old!

I did that route in spring several years ago, and thought the crux was a short, 5.8ish offwidth near the top. Did you encounter that? If so, how was it in the dark?


asmrz - Mar 26, 2010 6:14 pm - Hasn't voted

Re Awesome

Sam, on the Ibrium Tower, there are several ways to go. The way we went, we encountered one 5.8 section on the tower, a left facing hand crack (see Miguel's picture leading it) and another 5.8 section with a short 5.8 offwidth you mention. The climbing in boots, in winter, with a pack and in the dark (on the offwidth)was just plain hard.


asmrz - Mar 26, 2010 7:01 pm - Hasn't voted


To: MauriceRavel, Snowball, JedSMG and cp0915

Thank you guys, it was an awesome trip. Miguel, who has done just about everything in some 38 years of climbing, said to me Wednesday evening, wasn't that a great trip? Maybe the best for us?
We all think that the last climb was our best, and, sometimes, it's true. This one really was.

Edited spelling (obviously)!


mdostby - Mar 26, 2010 7:21 pm - Voted 10/10


Nice job guys!!!


hamik - Mar 26, 2010 7:50 pm - Voted 10/10

Full conditions!

As the Scots would say, one hasn't climbed a route until it's done in "full conditions." Great work! I am totally pleased that this winter game is becoming established in California.


asmrz - Mar 26, 2010 8:36 pm - Hasn't voted

Re Full conditions

Thanks Hamik. This California winter game will probably never be a game for too many people. Someone told me a long time ago, why do that when one can go to the beach?


asmrz - Mar 26, 2010 8:41 pm - Hasn't voted

Re Hardcore

Thanks Mike, this was hard for me at this point of my life. So happy we could complete it.

Sam Mills

Sam Mills - Mar 27, 2010 10:02 am - Voted 10/10


Fantastic climb, Alois. Thanks for the TR.


asmrz - Mar 27, 2010 11:04 am - Hasn't voted

Re Congrats

Thank you Sam, you are welcome for the TR.


Misha - Mar 27, 2010 1:38 pm - Hasn't voted


Awesome job, you guys! Inspiring. Surprised that it was so cold last weekend. I thought that the weather finally started to turn as we were coming down Whitney two weeks ago

I wonder if Venusian Blind or Sunribbon have been climbed in the winter!??


asmrz - Mar 27, 2010 2:52 pm - Hasn't voted

Re wicked

Hi Misha, It was very cold on the Arete. The wind was the worst thing, chilling us to the bone. I read your note about the E. Butt., a damm good show by you guys in the winter. Sun Ribbon Arete was done years ago (in the early 80s?) by George Lowe and Brock Wagstaff. They both had a bit of frostbite after the climb.
The Venusian Blind Arete was (to my knowledge) not done in the winter.


asmrz - Mar 28, 2010 11:51 am - Hasn't voted

Re Top Stuff

The route is overlooking the Third Lake and down to the North Fork Canyon. At places it is steep, so one gets good pictures of it. Glad you liked it. Cheers, A.

KathyW - Mar 28, 2010 4:14 pm - Voted 10/10


What an amazingly beautiful trip/climb.


Romain - Mar 28, 2010 4:37 pm - Hasn't voted



Liba Kopeckova

Liba Kopeckova - Mar 28, 2010 9:46 pm - Voted 10/10

great trip report...

congratulations...are you Czech?


lasvegaswraith - Mar 29, 2010 12:25 am - Voted 10/10


Kickass Gentlemen...congrats!

Viewing: 1-20 of 42



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