Dow Williams - Sep 1, 2024 1:07 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2024
Tenaya Peak
Would be considered a scramble by Canadian Rockies standards but listed as 5.5 in the local guide. The approach and descent are short and simple. Start at the large lake parking area and hike the trail like you are going to the lake but turn left on a much narrow, but well travelled, trail. Don't stay on it that long. Leave it when it makes sense to start going cross country up to the base of the east face. Some brush, but you will see animal and human trails here and there. Once on the slab, trend up and left following many corners and slab. Near the end, the FA goes up and left and then back right to the easy summit. The descent is nice. Head west and down to slabs. Continue down looking to traverse right below the north side of the mountain. Stay in the trees above the cliff line and continue heading back east aiming for the southeastern corner of the lake. You will eventually make out a large treed gully that breaks down through the cliff band. You will catch a trail down at the lake and hit the beach for a quick swim before returning to your vehicle. I took two hours up and about an hour+ down. Goes very fast for the fit soloist. Approach shoes are more than adequate if experienced.
Diesel - Jun 29, 2021 6:12 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2021
Eventful
Straight up on West Face over talus and slabs to the ridge. Clouds were gathering and when I hit the ridge I could hear thunder a lot. As I hit the summit it starting raining just a little. I started downhill and decided that the SW slop would be faster. Not for me: I got somehow off the trail and ended up on the wrong side of the mountain. Lightning and thunder was getting more intense but once I got into the forest I didn't mind. It took me 1:45 to get up and 1:30 to get down. As I entered the car, the mother of all storms started, with lightning, thunder, tremendous downpour and hail. If I was 2 minutes late I would have been soaked completely. Lucky.
Deb - Aug 23, 2020 2:10 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2020
NW Butt ... again
The guys and I climbed the NW Butt in approach shoes...no rope needed. The approach got gooned up but we did the climb perfectly. Second trip up this thing; really enjoy it!
Romain - Sep 9, 2019 2:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2019
Started at the beach, climbed NW slope, and eventually found a chute to get to SW ridge (one or two class-3 moves were needed in the chute), then an easy walk to the top. About 2.5 hours on the way up. Used a field of huge boulders, just SW of the chute, on my way down from the ridge.
apachedino - Jul 13, 2015 2:30 pm Date Climbed: Oct 28, 2009
Fun!
Fun day after Matthes and Conness the previous 2.
WayneFry - Oct 19, 2014 12:24 pm Date Climbed: Oct 5, 2014
NW Buttress
Climbed with a team of five. It was a good day and a great weekend. We did Tenaya canyon the day before.
Bill562 - Sep 1, 2014 3:58 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2014
NW Buttress
Team of five, overestimated the route, brought too much stuff
nikhilm - Jul 9, 2014 6:00 pm Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2014
SW slope from Sunrise Lakes
Easy ascent from South slope after going cross country to slabs below Mildred Lake from Sunrise Lakes. Descended down meadows to Clouds Rest Trail. This latter part was a bad idea due to extreme mosquito pressure! The route itself is easy.
bedellympian - Jun 27, 2014 7:49 pm Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2014
NW Butt solo
Fun scrambling, the 5.7 finish was lichen covered but otherwise good. Used this route to approach Matthes and finished the day with Cathedral. An excellent idea.
dkangas - Aug 14, 2013 10:38 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2013
NW Buttress Solo
First solo whilst on chemo. Had the mountain to myself until I met a large bear on the way down.
Mostly a slog, but some interesting options getting to the SW ridge after the tree ledge is gained. I looked for the class 3 chute described in the route description, but I don't think I found it.
Climbed Northwest Buttress route with Ryan. Mostly simulclimbing with exception of the couple of upper pitches. Nice rock, beautiful weather, great views!
muajee - Jul 23, 2013 12:34 am Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2013
NW Buttress Free Solo
With Kazu.
Passed one roped party and had the rest of the route and summit to ourselves.
FUN as always!!!!!
Took the direct exit instead of the class 4 traverse this time. Amazingly easy.
Vertigo soul - Jul 1, 2013 2:44 pm Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2013
NW Butt
Enjoyed a very hot day on this fun and easy route! Simul-climbed much of it until the top 2-3 pitches. Very popular route, but for good reason!
Larry Laverty - Jun 1, 2013 1:48 am Date Climbed: May 30, 2013
South Slope
My route to the top: Leave Sunrise Trailhead, wade across Tenaya Creek, go 7 to Clouds Rest, come back 5 to the split for Sunrise HSC, go 2+ to Sunrise Lakes, up half the ridge to the north to a traverse to Mildred Lake, up the south slope of Tenaya to the top. Down by way of the Southwest Ridge and such. Like most folks I'd driven by this luscious piece of rock countless times and the view down on Tenaya Lake was more than I could've imagined.
muajee - Sep 17, 2012 6:15 am Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2011
via NW Buttress
14 pitches of fun without pros: I had a rack on me and my buddy carried the rope. Never placed anything and the rope remained on his back. I was feeling comfortable and just kept going up. Before we knew it, we were standing atop. :O
It was awesome, but felt almost too short. Fantastic view and I really did enjoy the climb - LOVE the low angle slab!! Next time though I will solo it without all these "dead-weight"...
Dow Williams - Sep 1, 2024 1:07 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2024
Tenaya PeakWould be considered a scramble by Canadian Rockies standards but listed as 5.5 in the local guide. The approach and descent are short and simple. Start at the large lake parking area and hike the trail like you are going to the lake but turn left on a much narrow, but well travelled, trail. Don't stay on it that long. Leave it when it makes sense to start going cross country up to the base of the east face. Some brush, but you will see animal and human trails here and there. Once on the slab, trend up and left following many corners and slab. Near the end, the FA goes up and left and then back right to the easy summit. The descent is nice. Head west and down to slabs. Continue down looking to traverse right below the north side of the mountain. Stay in the trees above the cliff line and continue heading back east aiming for the southeastern corner of the lake. You will eventually make out a large treed gully that breaks down through the cliff band. You will catch a trail down at the lake and hit the beach for a quick swim before returning to your vehicle. I took two hours up and about an hour+ down. Goes very fast for the fit soloist. Approach shoes are more than adequate if experienced.
Diesel - Jun 29, 2021 6:12 pm Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2021
EventfulStraight up on West Face over talus and slabs to the ridge. Clouds were gathering and when I hit the ridge I could hear thunder a lot. As I hit the summit it starting raining just a little. I started downhill and decided that the SW slop would be faster. Not for me: I got somehow off the trail and ended up on the wrong side of the mountain. Lightning and thunder was getting more intense but once I got into the forest I didn't mind. It took me 1:45 to get up and 1:30 to get down. As I entered the car, the mother of all storms started, with lightning, thunder, tremendous downpour and hail. If I was 2 minutes late I would have been soaked completely. Lucky.
Deb - Aug 23, 2020 2:10 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2020
NW Butt ... againThe guys and I climbed the NW Butt in approach shoes...no rope needed. The approach got gooned up but we did the climb perfectly. Second trip up this thing; really enjoy it!
Romain - Sep 9, 2019 2:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2019
NW ButtressWith my son Simon. Trip report.
labgloves - Aug 23, 2015 5:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2015
SW ridge with Tressider and Columbia FingerWonderful overcast day
xharv - Jul 21, 2015 7:58 pm Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2015
NW slope and SW ridge from Tenaya LakeStarted at the beach, climbed NW slope, and eventually found a chute to get to SW ridge (one or two class-3 moves were needed in the chute), then an easy walk to the top. About 2.5 hours on the way up. Used a field of huge boulders, just SW of the chute, on my way down from the ridge.
apachedino - Jul 13, 2015 2:30 pm Date Climbed: Oct 28, 2009
Fun!Fun day after Matthes and Conness the previous 2.
WayneFry - Oct 19, 2014 12:24 pm Date Climbed: Oct 5, 2014
NW ButtressClimbed with a team of five. It was a good day and a great weekend. We did Tenaya canyon the day before.
Bill562 - Sep 1, 2014 3:58 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2014
NW ButtressTeam of five, overestimated the route, brought too much stuff
nikhilm - Jul 9, 2014 6:00 pm Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2014
SW slope from Sunrise LakesEasy ascent from South slope after going cross country to slabs below Mildred Lake from Sunrise Lakes. Descended down meadows to Clouds Rest Trail. This latter part was a bad idea due to extreme mosquito pressure! The route itself is easy.
bedellympian - Jun 27, 2014 7:49 pm Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2014
NW Butt soloFun scrambling, the 5.7 finish was lichen covered but otherwise good. Used this route to approach Matthes and finished the day with Cathedral. An excellent idea.
dkangas - Aug 14, 2013 10:38 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2013
NW Buttress SoloFirst solo whilst on chemo. Had the mountain to myself until I met a large bear on the way down.
CWessels - Jul 31, 2013 12:02 pm Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2013
West FaceMostly a slog, but some interesting options getting to the SW ridge after the tree ledge is gained. I looked for the class 3 chute described in the route description, but I don't think I found it.
strudolyubov - Jul 29, 2013 6:22 pm Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2013
Northwest ButtressClimbed Northwest Buttress route with Ryan. Mostly simulclimbing with exception of the couple of upper pitches. Nice rock, beautiful weather, great views!
muajee - Jul 23, 2013 12:34 am Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2013
NW Buttress Free SoloWith Kazu.
Passed one roped party and had the rest of the route and summit to ourselves.
FUN as always!!!!!
Took the direct exit instead of the class 4 traverse this time. Amazingly easy.
Vertigo soul - Jul 1, 2013 2:44 pm Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2013
NW ButtEnjoyed a very hot day on this fun and easy route! Simul-climbed much of it until the top 2-3 pitches. Very popular route, but for good reason!
Larry Laverty - Jun 1, 2013 1:48 am Date Climbed: May 30, 2013
South SlopeMy route to the top: Leave Sunrise Trailhead, wade across Tenaya Creek, go 7 to Clouds Rest, come back 5 to the split for Sunrise HSC, go 2+ to Sunrise Lakes, up half the ridge to the north to a traverse to Mildred Lake, up the south slope of Tenaya to the top. Down by way of the Southwest Ridge and such. Like most folks I'd driven by this luscious piece of rock countless times and the view down on Tenaya Lake was more than I could've imagined.
muajee - Sep 17, 2012 6:15 am Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2011
via NW Buttress14 pitches of fun without pros: I had a rack on me and my buddy carried the rope. Never placed anything and the rope remained on his back. I was feeling comfortable and just kept going up. Before we knew it, we were standing atop. :O
It was awesome, but felt almost too short. Fantastic view and I really did enjoy the climb - LOVE the low angle slab!! Next time though I will solo it without all these "dead-weight"...
mtneering - Sep 8, 2012 9:15 pm Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2012
NW ButtressGreat
Hyadventure - Sep 4, 2012 6:50 pm Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2012
Almost ashamed to say..I climbed free-solo. It's totally against my climbing philosophy to take un-needed risks, but it felt right that day. Fun, easy climbing.