The Sting, 5.10bR, 4 Pitches

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 37.84009°N / 119.45521°W
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.10b (YDS)
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 4
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview/Approach

2nd Pitch, 5.10b
2nd Pitch, 5.10b
3rd Pitch, 5.10a
3rd Pitch, 5.10a

There are several moderates in Tuolumne that have a certain “lore” (i.e. Dike Route and On the Lamb) among climbers who have led them and Hoodwink is one of those routes.  Its massive roof pull is wild, bold and physical, albeit quite positive.  The ability to combine routes of similar grade in full sun is what makes Harlequin Dome's south facing wall a solid spring or fall objective and the Sting shares most of the same starter pitch with Hoodwink.  Then it traverses up and right to its own roof excitement on pitch three.  This roof pull pales in comparison however to the roof pull on Hoodwink’s 3rd pitch, but the traversing under-cling nature of it makes for a solid 5.10a lead.  The crux of the Sting is the start of its 4th pitch which offers a shallow left facing corner with challenging pro for several meters off the deck above the roof.  The moves seemed soft for Yosemite 5.10b but the lack of straight forward gear placements keeps your attention.  After the initial corner on pitch 4, the grade eases way back as you run it out to the top.  Although the local guide marks the 2nd half of this 4th pitch as runout, 5.7X, I felt it was no more dangerous than any other runout in Tuolumne at that grade.  There were more gear opportunities than I expected for R/X.

Park at the Tenaya Lake parking lot and cross the road to the north.  Hike west along the road for a bit and then head up to access a treed ramp, left to right, that lands you below the corner of the first pitch with a bolted route out right (No Rock Nazis).  You can clearly see the roof you are pulling from the road and I have offered up a photo marking the two roofs associated with Hoodwink and the Sting.  There is not much of a trail to the base of this wall, but the approach is straightforward and relatively short.   

Route Descripton

1st Pitch- 80’- 5.8/ Shared start with Hoodwink, but stop at the main ledge.  This first pitch is a bit stout for even typical Yosemite 5.8.  It starts off with an easy, but steep, hands/stem corner but then you have to make a few awkward/wide stems to traverse to the right most crack and escape ramp before continuing up to a ledge and gear belay out left.  

2nd Pitch- 90’- 5.10b/ What 5.10b moves, if any, are protected at a bolt mid-way up.  Follow a piton and three bolts pass a bolted anchor to a comfortable belay below the rightward roof above. 

3rd Pitch- 50’- 5.10a/ This is the fun pitch of the route.  Climb up to the roof, extend your placements and traverse out right under clinging the roof, sometimes fingers, sometimes hands, with your feet on the slab.  Pull the roof near its right end at a well-protected finger crack via lay back and high left foot.  Medium gear belay in the floor of the ledge above.

4th Pitch- 215’-5.10b/ The start of the flaring shallow left facing finger corner above is the crux of the route.  Place off-set gear and lay back up the corner for several meters where it eases up to relatively easy climbing to the top of the formation.  Variable finishes, but nothing really “X” about it as referenced on the topo.

Climbing Sequence

1st Pitch
1st Pitch
2nd Pitch, 5.10b
2nd Pitch, 5.10b
3rd Pitch, 5.10a
3rd Pitch, 5.10a
4th Pitch, 5.10b
4th Pitch, 5.10b

Descent

Hike down the slab to the west of the face, skirting brush when you can.  In short order you can return through brush, east, to the base of the route or descend straight down if done for the day.

Essential Gear

The local guide calls for single to #3, doubles to #2.  We did not take a #3 and found no need for one.  If I climbed it again, I would take a single to #2.  The roof traverse is where you need gear but it is only 50’ long and takes all sizes.  Take off-set wires and/or cams for the tricky start of the 4th pitch.  Route receives all day sun.  Biner your shoes for the descent.  If this is your only route on Harlequin, suit up at the car so you do not need to return to the base which will make the descent more pleasant.



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