Follow the Tokapah Valley trail from the Lodgepole campground for 1.5 miles. At trails end (next toTokapah Falls), hop over the Marble Fork River (maybe difficult to cross in the spring) then back down stream for 100 yards. Skirt past north facing slabs and then head uphill (southwest). The Watchtower is the obvious tower at the end of the valley's south side cliff walls. Continue uphill by following a loose, shallow gully and then over pocketed terraces (some 3rd class). Head up to the largest lodgepole at the base of the Watchtower. Total approach time: 1.5 to 2 hours from the trailhead.
The Timex Route begins 200 feet to the right of a lodgepole pine. The first pitch (5.7 "jungle"!) heads up to a terrace ledge. To avoid rope drag through vegetation, move the belay to the ledges' right side (40 feet). Begin the second pitch (5.6/5.7) up a right facing corner. Follow the corner up to a small ledge (130') and belay in the corner. The third pitch continues up a steep, broken corner (5.9), which goes up and slightly left. The pitch ends at a shallow recess (150'). The 4th pitch is a beautiful, airy traverse out onto the face by following a finger crack up and right (5.8, pro to 1"). The pitch continues by going up a broken groove (somewhat vegetated). Belay at a small, sloping vegetated ledge (160!). Pitch 5 moves right from the belay for 20 feet over to a crack (5.9 hands). Use caution, there are a few loose chockstones and slightly chossy rock along the way. The pitch ends at a narrow ledge (right of the crack). Begin up pitch 6 by moving slightly left and then up on good featured holds (poor pro) to a small overlap. "Navigate" the overlap (awkward 5.9) and follow blocky low 5th class to a big sandy ledge (belay on it's right side). Pitch 7 involves thrashing up and through some vegetation for 90 feet. Belay at a black, lichen infested corner. Climb out from it's right side (blind corner!) then over a six foot gap (5.7)......lots of air! Head up from the gap to the north facing summit blocks. Scramble up big ledges and chimney through blocks to the summit (3rd class). Most parties descend via the Pear Lake Trail back down to Lodgepole (3.2 miles)
A full rack will do the job; mostly mediam pro (bring a few #3 Camelots). Pitch 5 has few flairing section (recommend using a few medium to large Aliens). Lots of slings and at least one 60 meter rope. A helmet is highly encouraged!
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