The Trapps

Page Type
Route
Location:
New York, United States, North America
Route Type:
Technical Rock Climb
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
5.2 - 5.12

Route Quality: 6 Votes

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Created On: Jan 7, 2004
Last Edited On: Mar 24, 2009

Description

This page is now discontinued.
Please use The Trapps page under Mountains & Rocks.

Approach

The two main access points to The Trapps are the Trapps bridge (the bridge over route 44/55) and the Uberfall Trail (located between the hairpin turn and the scenic overlook).
Running along the top of the cliff is the “Top ‘O”, the Trapps Trail. A descent from here can be found easily. Climbs left or south of “Dirty Gerdie” can be descended on the south end of the cliffs, near “The Brat”. For climbs south of “High Exposure”, Descend the “Uberfall Descent”. For climbing north of “High Exposure” use “Roger’s Escape Hatch” or maybe “Silly Chimney”

Route Description

This is in continual update mode







ROUTE NAME ~ SPORT / TRADLINKSRATING ~ RANGE 5.3-5.12dDESCRIPTIONPROTECTION ~ QUARTZITE ROCK
AbsurdlandLINK5.9Climb the crack and face to a small ledge. Crux is fairly low, #2 Camalot helpful on the opening moves.PG
Annie Oh!LINK5.9Start: On the face between Three Doves and Limelight. Pitch 1:
Climb straight up the face to the crack on the right
side of the large block, Then diagonal left to the large pine tree
belay/rap station on the GT ledge (5.8). Pitch 2: Diagonal right to a
grassy ledge then climb the left-facing flakes. Move up slightly left
then right to a small left-facing flake. Move up right to another flake,
then up the face to a small overhang. Traverse left to the crack then up
to the top (5.8) (rap bolts & chains).
Standard Gunks rack
Big ChimneyLINK-1
LINK-2
LINK-3
5.5Chimney system right of Matineesmall to medium cams and nuts
Black FlyN/A5.5Start at a low angle left-facing corner/ramp 20 feet right of "Easy Keyhole". Climb up to the large pineExcellent
Shockley's CeilingLINK-1
LINK-2
LINK-3
5.6The ceiling of this climb is very difficult for shorter people, but is not necessarily easy of you are tallG
High ExposureLINK-1
LINK-2
LINK-3
LINK-4
5.6The first pitch of the actual route is a simple 5.5, though there are many alternate routes for the first pitch, allowing the climb to be as high as 5.10. The last pitch of High E is the famous pitch. The belay ledge is in a huge horizontal slice out of the rock, so that there is a roof over your head. When facing the cliff, the pitch goes up left on to a shelf, then traverses the the right. At that point, you have to lean out and reach for the rock above your head.Gunks rack to 3"

Essential Gear

See route "Protection"

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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nartreb

nartreb - Jun 10, 2008 7:59 pm - Voted 4/10

Book suggestion

Until this page gets vastly further built out, most folks will rely on guidebooks.



The Williams book on the Trapps is vastly superior to the Swain book.

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The Trapps

Route
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