Third Trango

Third Trango Tower (Trango Pulpit) from camp across the Baltoro Glacier, after an overnight dusting. Great Trango stands behind to the left; Nameless Tower (Second Trango) is hidden behind it.
About May 25, 1988

The slightly-lower peak at the front-right of Third Trango is called Trango Castle, and being below 6,000 meters (It's 5753m / 18870 feet.), it can be climbed without a mountaineering permit. It's a relatively short hike (3 days?) from the road, by Himalayan standards, and only one day on the glacier. That means fewer porters, therefore much lower cost to go there.

Doug and I approached Trango from across the glacier, but found out later that was unnecessary. You can hike directly to it along the N edge of the glacier from Paiyu Camp, skirting the bases of Paiyu and Uli Biaho. You cross two side glaciers, but both were snow-free in May/June, so we didn't feel the need to rope up at all.

A huge boulder under the SW corner of the peak shelters dry bivy sites for about 6. Or skirt up the edge of the Trango Glacier to beneath the W side of Great Trango, where you'll find a few football fields' worth of flat, smooth sand.

The granite walls are superb quality; the gullies are full of the usual crap. The South face, above the Baltoro, had a French team working up it when Doug and I arrived. One obstacle that limits route choices is the glacial debris plastered to the lower face. Standing on the moraine beside the glacier, you look up maybe 60 or 100 meters at patches of mud and boulders stuck to the almost-sheer face. There are gaps in the stuff, or the face wouldn't be worth considering. In the picture above, the debris-covered ice hills in the foreground hide the lower face.

Comments

Post a Comment
Viewing: 1-16 of 16
justahiker

justahiker - Jan 30, 2008 1:46 am - Voted 10/10

Beautiful photo!

Really powerful!

bordop

bordop - Jan 30, 2008 2:12 am - Voted 10/10

my god

word

OneJim

OneJim - Feb 24, 2010 1:55 am - Voted 10/10

Re: my god

Words fail me. What a great image

Tomek Lodowy

Tomek Lodowy - Jan 30, 2008 8:27 am - Voted 10/10

Majestic

that's big!

Fabrice.Rimlinger

Fabrice.Rimlinger - Jan 30, 2008 10:40 am - Voted 10/10

Mighty view...

powerfull mountains indeed !

Eric Sandbo

Eric Sandbo - Jan 30, 2008 5:17 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Looks...

It turned into a brilliant Spring day. I went swimming that afternoon. Just up the valley a glacier comes off the East Masherbrum Group, melting just long enough to make a little lake, dammed by the Baltoro Glacier. I was alone, waiting to intercept porters coming down from Urdukas camp, and aware of the scuz I'd been collecting since bathing in the hot springs near Askole. So I stripped, waded in, and dunked myself. Then I wished I had a towel - the porters were carrying most of my gear. It was still daylight, but the sun was down behind the mountains, and I was out in the breeze at the junction of two glacier valleys. So I walked in circles on the sand until I dried enough to put my clothes back on.
Think of that next time someone tells you they've seen a yeti. :)

Eric Sandbo

Eric Sandbo - Jan 30, 2008 2:42 pm - Hasn't voted

Thanks

Thanks, guys, for the kind words. Third Trango is worth consideration as a climb. Beautiful granite, sunshine (mostly), and just low enough to not require a mountaineering permit. I'll put more in the caption when I have the time.

Karrar Haidri

Karrar Haidri - Feb 3, 2008 2:20 am - Voted 10/10

Very Nice

and well captured,Thanks for sharing.

RayMondo

RayMondo - Sep 23, 2009 4:09 pm - Voted 10/10

Both Majestic and Mystic

Truly a stunning spectacle with both incredible presence and power. The wispy cloud and foreground snow dusting set the scene.
I am seeing so many great shots that, I begin to suffer (benefit) from Hyper-oxygenation. The more I look, the more my lungs fill and I come alive.

Eric Sandbo

Eric Sandbo - Sep 24, 2009 12:45 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Both Majestic and Mystic

Thanks. I wish I could say I arranged it all, but it's just what we woke up to that morning. I'll admit I'm biased, but I think we've got a pretty nice planet here.

RayMondo

RayMondo - Sep 25, 2009 5:04 am - Voted 10/10

Re: Both Majestic and Mystic

Planet - we have a great one. Though I'm into astronomy - the probability that there are others as good, are high. Guess that leaves us all with endless places to explore. In a couple of years, I should be making my first space trip!

Nadeemkhawar

Nadeemkhawar - May 4, 2010 2:00 am - Voted 10/10

superbbbbbbbbb!

great image of great Trango group.

sharperblue

sharperblue - Sep 16, 2010 10:17 pm - Voted 10/10

fav

just gotta say, this might be my favorite picture on all of summitpost; i think i've down-loaded it on every machine i own :)

Eric Sandbo

Eric Sandbo - Sep 20, 2010 7:58 pm - Hasn't voted

You haven't been looking.

Thanks, but SP is top-heavy with spectacular shots, including yours! I looked at some of your photos and can't find some of the peaks you climbed here. Got time to do some mountain pages for us?

sharperblue

sharperblue - Sep 24, 2010 1:31 pm - Voted 10/10

intend to!

you bet! i fully intend to create quite a bit of stuff for us here - just need to get in that last month or two of quality climbing time before the snows start to dump; the late fall is my productive time :)

rizwan

rizwan - Dec 11, 2010 10:02 am - Hasn't voted

great shoot

great picture great enviorment very rare shoot of great trango either it is very low in hight regarding pakistani mountain,but enviorment made it spectecular shoot.

Viewing: 1-16 of 16