Three Fingered Jack Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 65

misterbob568 - Aug 30, 2018 7:48 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2018

a heap of fun  Sucess!

Climbed this in July with the Santiam Alpine Club and can understand why some don't like to climb this mountain. Group of six. It seems like the whole thing is falling apart. We placed traverse ropes on three sections (including the crawl) plus belayed the summit climb. From when we started placing ropes to summit and back took roughly 4 hours without another living soul in sight. Most of the hiking/climbing in those 4 hours was very exposed.

I can't imagine climbing this on a popular day... three is a crowd on the summit and I wouldn't want to have to go around anybody from the climb up the summit block onwards. The summit was generally a very uncomfortable place, with loose rock, massive exposure, and swarming hordes of insects to deal with. I did my best to not react when they crawled near my eyes/mouth because sudden movement could have severe consequences up there. Was never more glad to get off a summit.

Definitely a unique and exhilarating climb; very glad I climbed it with someone who has been up there before.

Major northwest peak 3/18

Harvest

Harvest - Mar 30, 2017 3:33 am Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2015

South Ridge  Sucess!

South Ridge Route. Class 5 (YDS 5.1)

I climbed with Jon and Lorraine. A Santiam Alpine Club climb. Led by Nathan and assisted by Adrian. 12 in the party split into two climbing teams.

Fog and rain all day but still a very fun climb!

Vic Hanson

Vic Hanson - Aug 11, 2016 2:39 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2016

Great exposure   Sucess!

Climbed with my friend Jason, who soloed the crawl and the final chute and belayed me on those sections. We only had a 30 foot rope so down climbed using the rope and a couple of slings for protection. Very exposed but easy climbing.We were pleasantly surprised how solid the holds were. Total round trip time was 7 hours, 20 minutes.

Matt Lemke

Matt Lemke - Jan 12, 2016 9:17 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2015

Loose pile of sand!  Sucess!

Nice hike on the trail but the loose sand going up to the summit area was so loose it was interesting. I solod the summit pitch while Jayme waited just below. I then rappelled down. Man that is one small and exposed place!

nicozone

nicozone - Sep 28, 2015 6:03 pm Date Climbed: Dec 22, 2013

Playing around in December

The weather was foggy, but the predictions were low winds and no new snow accumulation. We car camped in the parking lot right off of OR-126. The morning of our climb was overcast with low-hanging fog that kept us from ever seeing the peak, but we via snowshoes for several hours along the PCT before deciding to bag it and head home to warm up and grab a beer.

emilie

emilie - Jul 17, 2015 1:33 am Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2015

Success  Sucess!

Super grateful we roped up for "the crawl" and the summit pinnacle!

rmick25

rmick25 - Feb 11, 2015 5:29 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2014

Never again  Sucess!

Went solo with gear hoping for group up top. Lucked out they let me rap their rope. Foot hold broke one move from top. Super Sketchy.

Rkapman

Rkapman - Dec 1, 2014 5:03 pm Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2014

September  Sucess!

came up from the PCT made it to the slight overhang, roped up on the traverse for safety, made it to the wall right after a mazama group. We waited for their ascent then made our ascent. Windy up at the pinnacle but sunny, lots of bugs, group of about 5 of us

SawtoothSean

SawtoothSean - Sep 3, 2014 11:04 pm Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2014

Cluster  Sucess!

Easy PCT approach, steep but short slof to ridge and then fun traverse. I thought the hype about loose rock was overdone. We watched a big group of Mazamas rope climb almost every part even the class 3 stuff before the Crawl. They were cool though and let us solo through. Rope was only needed for a short rap off summit. We brought the 30m. The scree decent was epically fast! Great sunny weather.

kraymes

kraymes - Aug 12, 2014 7:18 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2014

South Ridge  Sucess!

Freak show choss. The insect hatch/swarm on the summit was freakish too. From the summit could see the Bridge Complex fire bloom out.

rick6003

rick6003 - Jul 9, 2014 10:02 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2014

Beautiful Day  Sucess!

I marked it as successful because the main body of my group summited the mountain.

We walked in the night before to do an overnight at the base of 3FJ. I was hoping to camp on the shelf right above the PCT, too much snow so we ended up camping right on the trail. Still a nice night.

In the morning we started up the hill, I soon realized that I wasn't up for the climb today. After handing off what climb gear I was carrying , the rest of my climber's headed up. Everything went fine till the top. Other groups were taking a long time to get across. Finally at the Chimney, Andee and Katya free climbed up. Larry and Gene used prusiks. They all had a grand time as the day was just perfect.

rick6003

rick6003 - Feb 22, 2014 11:49 am Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2012

a late report  Sucess!

A late report for sure,

My first time up TFJ was I made it to the Crawl and stopped there. I had went by myself, I had gotten to the trail head early so thought I might walk in and try out those space blankets since it was so warm out. first mistake was to dig out the nice warm sand besides a large rock. By about 4 am I was getting cold. I'm a restless sleeper and had punched some good sized holes in my space blanket bag.

Next attempt. We had a very foggy day, I was the only one who had been on this mountain before so was leading the way. Very cool to see it all from this perspective. the last time was a perfect sunshine day.

We roped up across the Crawl and Top roped the Summit. By this time it was getting pretty darn cold and windy. One the way back, one of us had a very hard time with the exposure. I was beginning to think we were going to have a hard time getting back down but we eventually got down to safety. Perhaps the fog helped us, they really had no idea of the exposure on this mountain, you could only see about a hundred feet or so.

I've done the standard climbs on most all of the Oregon Cascade mountains, none are as exposed as this one I believe.

cjwhat

cjwhat - Dec 24, 2013 6:00 pm Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2013

12 hour day  Sucess!

Left car at 7, returned at 7. Got off route to north on way up. Don't recommend those sketchy talus slopes. Gonna say it; crawl wasn't as scary as I've heard. David's first time with 'real' roped climbing. It was an excellent day hike.

triyoda

triyoda - Oct 23, 2013 12:34 am Date Climbed: Oct 19, 2013

Mad Exposure  Sucess!

Yeah, the crawl is pretty exposed, as is a lot of the ridge. The final chimney not so much. Nice summit.

calebEOC

calebEOC - Sep 8, 2013 11:25 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2013

Big exposure  Sucess!

Without a doubt the most exposed bit of climbing I have experienced here in Oregon. The catwalk bit reminded me of Broken Top, and the crawl didn't look too bad initially. However you're really hanging it all out there that last 15 feet of the crawl. I was happy we took the time to set a fixed line. The last 20 feet on the summit block was also more exposure than I initially expected. Anyway, happy to have this one completed here in my 7th full year of hiking and climbing.

bedellympian

bedellympian - Aug 22, 2013 1:08 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2013

choss pile  Sucess!

Easy but loose... worst I've seen yet in Oregon, land of choss piles.

Nick Turtura

Nick Turtura - Sep 22, 2012 11:10 pm Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2012

Three Words  Sucess!

Ex-Pose-Sure!
Holy crap that was awesome! It wasn't too technical but every step had wild possibilities of plummeting to your death. It was great. The crawl wasn't bad and the chimney was cake. We had perfect weather and sat on top ogling the Cascade line. Definitely one of my favorites yet.

SKI

SKI - Sep 6, 2011 10:44 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2011

Trembling what?  Sucess!

Solo moves on a gigantic chosspile.

RetroGear

RetroGear - Jan 9, 2011 11:27 pm

Regular Route

Back in high school I climbed Jack with buddies from Explorer Post 999. The fella with the rope was way out ahead. I remembering scrambling through the Crawl thinking "this sorta feels like where a person should rope up..."

iquest4it

iquest4it - Dec 25, 2010 5:38 am Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2009

He's Got the Jack   Sucess!

This was one of the funnest climbs in all the Cascades. We came in from one of the backside lakes on the west side, so we didn't see a soul all weekend. The summit pitch is a blast, and actually easier than it looks to lead, or should I say the rock is more solid than it looks. I want to come back and do this in the winter when it's iced up.

Viewing: 1-20 of 65
Return to 'Three Fingered Jack' main page