Great route photos and text that illustrate your very LONG day. You had nice weather (though probably chilly)-did you consider hunkering down for some Zs somewhere along the night? I don't think I could have kept marching like you guys did!
Thanks Aaron, we did have great weather, but it was definitely chilly in the shade and after dark. We briefly considered a bivy, but it was so much easier to stay warm if we were moving. Every time we stopped for more than a few minutes, the cold would catch up to us, so we kept moving just to stay ahead of it.
Great TR, Barry- nicely narrated, filled with pictures, tells the story, & isn't TOO long. Nice photos- the summit shot with the 'occasional climber' bike-helmet is classic! After doing Banner from the Ritter-Banner saddle, I thought that doing something technical on it would be fun (nice angular, solid, sharp, metamorphic rock). Thanks for the good read.
This is a really entertaining and informative TR. I met a couple of guys who climbed the East Corner a couple of years back, who thought it was more like 5.9, which pretty much put me off attempting it (especially in a day). But your photos and description make it both look and sound pretty appealing. Was the rock pretty solid?
Thanks Matthew, the rock is mostly pretty good, and once you have the routefinding worked out, it would be fairly easy to do it in a day. Never having been on the route before, we made a few wrong turns. I don't recall any 5.9 sections, maybe they were off-route. I'd feel better about being slow if it was 5.9... It doesn't get done much, which was definitely part of the appeal, but I wonder why, it was good stuff.
Thanks Doug, I feel fortunate that I don't often have to use that old gear, I like the new stuff, even though using it is cheating. I did wish I had a hammer for that loose pin, I was eager for some gear there.
Thanks Scott, we never really considered hunkering down, it was too cold to sit still. As long as we were moving, we were pretty warm. We were happy to be on the trail, the cross-country travel by headlamp was not pleasant, the trail was a piece of cake.
Oh no, there was plenty - it'll do nicely. I was a bit surprised that you had trouble at North Glacier Pass. I'm guessing you cut north too soon? The pass itself should have been pretty tame. I really would love to go on a hike with you one of these days.
I think the only reason we had trouble with North Glacier Pass is that we had never gone over it before, in fact had never been to Lake Catherine, and we couldn't tell for sure if we stayed low around the lake if we could make it. The distance was too much for the headlamps. I'm sure in daylight it would be a non-event. I looked at the topo when I got back, and it looked real straightforward. So possibly we did cut north too soon. How about the North Arete on Banner? It's another 4th class route that is now rated III 5.7. Supposed to be similar in length and difficulty to the East Corner... And you'd get to go over North Glacier Pass on the way out.
I don't really have my schedule that well planned out. but it would make a nice outing next summer when there's more daylight. I'll buzz you next summer about it.
Enjoyed reading your TR. It cracked me up when you wrote about your fear of heights and free soloing. You sound very humble for a guy who climbed in a day the whole NE Ridge of Williamson! ;)
Augie Medina - Sep 19, 2007 8:05 pm - Voted 10/10
Great TRAnd great and informative photos. Enjoyable reading.
bearbnz - Sep 19, 2007 10:46 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Great TRThanks, glad you liked it.
Aaron Johnson - Sep 19, 2007 9:17 pm - Hasn't voted
Nicely done report!Great route photos and text that illustrate your very LONG day. You had nice weather (though probably chilly)-did you consider hunkering down for some Zs somewhere along the night? I don't think I could have kept marching like you guys did!
bearbnz - Sep 19, 2007 10:49 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Nicely done report!Thanks Aaron, we did have great weather, but it was definitely chilly in the shade and after dark. We briefly considered a bivy, but it was so much easier to stay warm if we were moving. Every time we stopped for more than a few minutes, the cold would catch up to us, so we kept moving just to stay ahead of it.
ScottyS - Sep 21, 2007 1:17 am - Hasn't voted
Epic?Do epics happen only a stone's throw from the car? I'm sure D-Rod kept a stiff upper lip...
Nice photos.
Diggler - Sep 25, 2007 1:08 pm - Voted 10/10
Fun!Great TR, Barry- nicely narrated, filled with pictures, tells the story, & isn't TOO long. Nice photos- the summit shot with the 'occasional climber' bike-helmet is classic! After doing Banner from the Ritter-Banner saddle, I thought that doing something technical on it would be fun (nice angular, solid, sharp, metamorphic rock). Thanks for the good read.
bearbnz - Sep 25, 2007 4:40 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Fun!Hey Dirk, glad you enjoyed it. How about the North Ridge of Banner? It's supposed to be similar in length and difficulty...
Matthew Holliman - Sep 25, 2007 7:02 pm - Voted 10/10
AwesomeThis is a really entertaining and informative TR. I met a couple of guys who climbed the East Corner a couple of years back, who thought it was more like 5.9, which pretty much put me off attempting it (especially in a day). But your photos and description make it both look and sound pretty appealing. Was the rock pretty solid?
bearbnz - Sep 25, 2007 7:18 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: AwesomeThanks Matthew, the rock is mostly pretty good, and once you have the routefinding worked out, it would be fairly easy to do it in a day. Never having been on the route before, we made a few wrong turns. I don't recall any 5.9 sections, maybe they were off-route. I'd feel better about being slow if it was 5.9... It doesn't get done much, which was definitely part of the appeal, but I wonder why, it was good stuff.
bearbnz - Sep 26, 2007 11:05 am - Hasn't voted
Re: AwesomeThanks Craig, we didn't see a broken helmet anywhere... I'm kind of glad we didn't see it.
Doug Forbes - Sep 26, 2007 3:04 pm - Voted 10/10
Piton MemoriesA very entertaining report and great route photos! I grew up using hardware like the placements you found along the way....
bearbnz - Sep 26, 2007 6:57 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Piton MemoriesThanks Doug, I feel fortunate that I don't often have to use that old gear, I like the new stuff, even though using it is cheating. I did wish I had a hammer for that loose pin, I was eager for some gear there.
Scott Pierce - Sep 26, 2007 8:16 pm - Voted 9/10
Nice reportGood trip report! Did u reconsider your decision not to do it with a planned bivy while you were thrashing back down the trail?
bearbnz - Sep 27, 2007 9:08 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Nice reportThanks Scott, we never really considered hunkering down, it was too cold to sit still. As long as we were moving, we were pretty warm. We were happy to be on the trail, the cross-country travel by headlamp was not pleasant, the trail was a piece of cake.
Bob Burd - Sep 27, 2007 1:20 am - Voted 10/10
NiceGreat story Barry. I'll have to add this to the ever-growing list of Things to Do.
bearbnz - Sep 27, 2007 9:09 am - Hasn't voted
Re: NiceThanks Bob, I didn't think there was enough suffering on that trip to pique your interest.
Bob Burd - Sep 27, 2007 11:33 am - Voted 10/10
Re: NiceOh no, there was plenty - it'll do nicely. I was a bit surprised that you had trouble at North Glacier Pass. I'm guessing you cut north too soon? The pass itself should have been pretty tame. I really would love to go on a hike with you one of these days.
bearbnz - Sep 27, 2007 12:53 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: NiceI think the only reason we had trouble with North Glacier Pass is that we had never gone over it before, in fact had never been to Lake Catherine, and we couldn't tell for sure if we stayed low around the lake if we could make it. The distance was too much for the headlamps. I'm sure in daylight it would be a non-event. I looked at the topo when I got back, and it looked real straightforward. So possibly we did cut north too soon. How about the North Arete on Banner? It's another 4th class route that is now rated III 5.7. Supposed to be similar in length and difficulty to the East Corner... And you'd get to go over North Glacier Pass on the way out.
Bob Burd - Sep 27, 2007 10:47 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: NiceOk, sign me up. How about Aug 18, 2008?
:-)
I don't really have my schedule that well planned out. but it would make a nice outing next summer when there's more daylight. I'll buzz you next summer about it.
Zzyzx - Sep 28, 2007 10:59 pm - Hasn't voted
Heck of a class 4 climb, huh?Enjoyed reading your TR. It cracked me up when you wrote about your fear of heights and free soloing. You sound very humble for a guy who climbed in a day the whole NE Ridge of Williamson! ;)