University Peak Climber's Log

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Vic Hanson

Vic Hanson - Jul 22, 2014 2:11 am Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2014

Great challenge!  Sucess!

I had a challenging and thrilling time on Saturday climbing 13,589' University Peak. I thought it was supposed to be a class 2 walk up but after lots of class 3 scrambling, crossing some snow fields using flat stones in my hands for 'ice axes', and generally following what looked like a commonly used route, I came to a section that looked like it might be too risky and almost turned around, but decided to take my pack off and try to scout out a safe route. After a few tries, I found one with an easy class 4 move so went back and got my pack. However, the next higher level still wasn't the summit as I hoped, for another 4 or 5 times. Finally I reached a point where I couldn't continue, and had to give up. I turned around to see if I could go back down some and get around another way, and there was the true summit, back the other way! I reached the top at 6 pm, and was down to a beautiful campsite by a nice stream, along side of the PCT on the other side of the mountain by about 7:30.


irrationalist - Jan 31, 2014 11:22 am Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2013

CLMRG Mountaineering 101  Sucess!

Did this using University Pass as part of the Overnight trip required for the trip. Much like our failed attempt at Independence Peak the night prior, the day was filled with thunderstorms and rain.


Luc - Aug 23, 2013 12:19 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2013

Wow  Sucess!

ok, was at sea level 30 hours ago, ouch
Descent down the garbage chute was fun (NOT!)


orbitor - Aug 20, 2013 6:54 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2013

Via University Pass  Sucess!

This route is total garbage and is not recommended under any circumstances. Steep trail to Robinson Lake, then lots of boulder-hopping, some pretty steep, to bottom of pass. Pass is a miserable, super loose scramble up a very steep slope, where anything can become a projectile. After finally overcoming this crap, sandy slog all the way to summit when using the south slopes. Demoralizing is an understatement. Views from summit are as great as advertised. Return via same route is a nightmare. Descending the pass can only be done by riding large piles of unstable rock, most of them out of control. Never again.


hgrapid - Aug 18, 2013 1:42 am Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2013

Group of 10  Sucess!

My group struggled a bit, while I moved swiftly up the North Rib. The North Rib isn't that bad, but some tough spots, including getting to the actual summit. We went down via the shortcut route on the southeast side. That moraine slope is really difficult and long. Found the route to be about 10 miles.


Donno - Aug 12, 2013 9:37 am Date Climbed: Sep 1, 1996

NW Side  Sucess!

Scrambled up w/ Rahil. Approached w/ Doug, Peter & Laura


AceSierra - Aug 8, 2013 10:32 am Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2013

North Face  Sucess!

North Face route. I think we were in the chute too long, way too loose for my liking on the ascent, though not loose enough to boot ski on the descent. Close to the top was much more fun climbing. The view made it all worth it!


MoapaPk - Aug 2, 2013 9:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2013

Finally!  Sucess!

No 90 mph winds this time.


slagerjon - Jul 29, 2013 3:35 pm Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2013

North Face via Robinson  Sucess!

Fun dayhike, pelted with hail at summit, quick descent. All-in-all good trip with good people.


Fairweather - Nov 17, 2012 12:23 am Date Climbed: Jun 11, 1988

East Side with Mark  Sucess!

Early season with plenty of snow. Breakable crust made for an exhausting day. Beautiful Peak!


TheNobleSunfish - Oct 1, 2012 1:38 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2012

N Face  Sucess!

Nice scramble up, annoying talus coming back down via the pass.

Bob Sihler

Bob Sihler - Jul 22, 2012 11:28 pm Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2012

Part of a long day  Sucess!

After climbing a couple of the Kearsarge Pinnacles, I went up Kearsarge Basin and gained the ridge. From there, I went to University, sticking as close to the ridge as possible even though I could see the easy Class 2 slog below. Instead, I got lots of Class 3-5 climbing, sometimes with serious exposure, en route to the summit block.


bighornmonkey - Jun 25, 2012 8:22 pm Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2012

North face

Fun climb on the North side! The descend on the East involved a lot of snow an boulder hopping.


thexcat - Oct 6, 2011 2:42 pm Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2011

North face  Sucess!

With MaiAnh on a warm sunny day. Climbed a short class 3+ section near the summit due to snow. Some minor difficulties routefinding in the dark above Matlock lake on the return.


SJ - Sep 11, 2011 9:33 pm Date Climbed: Nov 12, 2010

out of time

Attempted to day hike from the parking lot. Snow on the trail starting at Onion Valley. This made things slower going and we turned back about 500' vert from the summit. Didn't want to descend the sketchy, icy slabs below Bench Lake in the dark.


BrianChase - Aug 22, 2011 4:34 pm

North Face  Sucess!

enjoyable climb... great views


haishan - Jun 8, 2011 3:35 am Date Climbed: May 28, 2011

ski traverse  Sucess!

Climbed the north face gully and descended the SE gully in search of better snow. Crux of the day was traversing the complex summit area on loose, snowy class 3 with skis strapped to back in 50mph winds. A beautiful mountain!


GigaMike - Feb 4, 2011 2:32 am Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2010

North Face  Sucess!

Climbed solo via the North Face. There was snow on the ridge which made the traverse "interesting". Fantastic views! One of my favorite climbs.


asmrz - Jan 28, 2011 6:10 pm

In winter  Sucess!

Miguel Carmona and I skied University Peak from Kearsarge Pass in March of 1982 one day after we skied Mt.Gould from the same area. Both are good AT summits.


MBFN - Jan 16, 2011 8:30 pm

Last minute   Sucess!

Drove to onion valley from San Diego after work, arrived at the trail head at 1:00 am, had a few drinks and started hiking. We camped out at bench lake and climed to the peak from there. Fun scramble and little bit of class 4 and 5 to the top.

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