Allen Steck and I were the co-leaders of the 1983 American Celestial Peak Expedition which made the first ascent of the peak via the Southwest Face (34 fifth class pitches to 5.10c). We climbed in Fire climbing shoes and used Friends almost exclusively on the climb, which was done free. We used anchors for rappel lines only. Team members (all Americans) were Allen and me, Brock Wagstaff, Bob Schneider, Pete White, Peter Klika, Eric Perlman and Bill Lahr. We completed a short film of the climb, "Tower of Challenge", narrated by Hoyt Axton, which is available from me today. Allen Steck and I did a reconnaissance of the peak in 1981, and we assisted Jim Donini and Jack Tackle on their attempt on the North Face of Siguniang. Ted Vaill