Vallüla (2813m) north face from high on the Breitspitze (2196m)

Vallüla (2813m) north face from high on the Breitspitze (2196m)

From this viewpoint high on the Bielerspitze, N by NE of Vallüla, it appears to be a double summit. The true one is on the left; the one on the right, seemingly about the same height, is somewhat closer and lower. Vallüla has three well defined ridges. This photo shows the east and northwest ridges, as well as the steep north face in between. The jagged northwest ridge has a separate name, Ganden. My map shows a local summit on it at 2634m. I reckon that's the distinctively pointy one. The third ridge, to the south from the rightmost summit, is by far the steepest. I looked at Vallüla with special interest, because not even a week earlier I had been up there. Not from this side though, no, by the normal route. It comes up from the south, ascending a steep and often dangerous couloir that leads to the gap between the two summits. From the gap the route continues up on this side of the mountain for a short while, including a few UIAA grade II moves, but soon it disappears again on the other side. The difficulties are over by then, as, mostly on a hiking trail, the route makes a rising traverse on the slopes below the summit, passing below it even, until eventually switching back to reach the top from the southeast. Alghough the approach is much longer than when starting on the other side, from Bielerhöhe to be precise, it's possible to climb Vallüla by starting on the northwest too. Not visible here, a trail goes up in the valley on the other side of the northwest ridge, leading to a high pass just over 2500m. Right after crossing the pass, the trail reaches a junction. You're now on the normal route. To the right leads to Bielerhöhe, to the left soon puts you at the base of the steep couloir. 26 July 2013.
rgg
on Oct 13, 2013 8:07 am
Image Type(s): Hiking,  Informational,  Scenery,  Panorama
Image ID: 871860

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