The route is demanding and popular, and is probably one of the most technical in the region. This, coupled with ease of access has led to some polished sections.
It’s graded as 5C in the Guidebook “Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol2" and is referred to in that book as ’Rover 4’
A great multi pitch ‘sports route,’ it is easy to find , above the town of Mori, near Lake Garda, Italy. The route ascends around 400 metres of the East Face of Monte Albano, in 7 main pitches.There are some breaks between the cables where a short scramble or walk is easy.
The crag as seen from Mori. Head for the Church and you will find the route
Mori is situated on the western flank of the Adige Valley, a few miles from the northern tip of Lake Garda. It is easily reached by the A22 motorway or the SS240 if heading from the lake.
The region is well served by public transport and is in an area where tourists are well catered for.
If you enter Mori coming from the lake, keep the high ground on your left, and when you enter the narrower streets of the old town, you will eventually see a narrow lane signposted ‘Via Attrezzata Monte Albano.‘
Follow that lane up steeply at first, until it turns into an earthen path leading up and right through Olive Groves. You will reach a church and then a small park with safety signs about the climbing and bouldering. A signposted path heads up to the base of the crag.
The steep first pitch
The first pitch starts with a shiny corner that is unprotected for the first few metres. After reaching the cable, the route moves up, bears left, then steeply up the face. At the top of this pitch is an earthy ledge and the only escape route.
The route climbs a corner and then heads off to the right on some polished and exposed ground with a few extra pegs for footholds. Follow the cable, you won’t get lost!
A steep corner with some footplates and pegs to aid your ascent.
After the steep corner, traverse left and pass a little shrine in a cave
Head back left, passing a little grotto shrine on the way. You will pass over the starting point, which now seems way below you. At the end of this traverse is a small metal bridge.
Again the route rises steeply, and then heads left eventually reaching a broad ledge at the foot of a pillar, called the Cobra.
From the top of the pillar, continue upwards and left, until a slight descent brings you to a polished rising ramp that tapers and slopes off to the drop off below you. You approach a blind arete and pull around it to the right.
The exposed ramp rising toward the final arrete
Traverse further into a corner and pull up onto a ledge were the route log is kept.
The steep but well laced final pitch
The final pitch rises steeply above you, with pegs to act as rungs. At the top, move right and back onto an earthen footpath.
Follow the path up, and when you reach a ‘T’ junction, turn left for the pleasant descent through the woods, or right for a Via Ferrata descent.
The whole route and descent will take some 4 to 5 hours. Water and sun cream would be a good idea in September, essential in hotter months.
The route is busy and there may be the chance of some falling stones. A helmet is recommended.
Other than standard VF kit, the only other thing you should consider is a pair of gloves. In some places, the cable will be the only thing to pull up on and it will shread your sweaty hands without gloves.
Some olives and a bottle of Rosso for the journey home.