We went to do this route on January 1st, 2017 but the cables were missing. We found the route and the bolts but it was unprotected and we didn't want to solo it in approach shoes. We encountered the same situation the next day at Via Ferrata La Guagua. This was pretty frustrating as we had planned via ferratas as the focal point of our trip. Bummer!
Bummer indeed! I fully understand your decision not to climb it unprotected. We had actually brought ropes, just in case, but the cables were fine.
Perhaps it's temporary, and new cables will be put up eventually. If not, these this will be trad routes from now on. For Baviera, the cable is just for security anyway, and it's not a very difficult climb. It's been a couple of years since I was there, but in hindsight I estimate around UIAA grade IV, mostly easier, and the hardest part was the start. But without protection, it can be a very long drop if you fall from higher up.
Anyway, thanks for reporting this. To warn other climbers, I've added a note at the start of the introduction.
Hi. I climbed the route today, 2023-03-09. A thin metal cable is in place. You need to climb 2-3 m in the beginning to reach it, and half way up the cable stops. I had difficulty locating a second cable and started free climbing until I spotted it in the middle of the two narrow gullies.
I only spotted one cairn and no paint spots on the return, so I had to rely on mapy.cz to make sure I walked far enough north before returning towards to the valley. But still a fine route!
Sean Maher - Jan 6, 2017 10:53 am - Hasn't voted
No cablesWe went to do this route on January 1st, 2017 but the cables were missing. We found the route and the bolts but it was unprotected and we didn't want to solo it in approach shoes. We encountered the same situation the next day at Via Ferrata La Guagua. This was pretty frustrating as we had planned via ferratas as the focal point of our trip. Bummer!
rgg - Jan 6, 2017 2:46 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: No cablesBummer indeed! I fully understand your decision not to climb it unprotected. We had actually brought ropes, just in case, but the cables were fine.
Perhaps it's temporary, and new cables will be put up eventually. If not, these this will be trad routes from now on. For Baviera, the cable is just for security anyway, and it's not a very difficult climb. It's been a couple of years since I was there, but in hindsight I estimate around UIAA grade IV, mostly easier, and the hardest part was the start. But without protection, it can be a very long drop if you fall from higher up.
Anyway, thanks for reporting this. To warn other climbers, I've added a note at the start of the introduction.
damgaard - Mar 9, 2023 12:50 pm - Hasn't voted
Via Ferrata BavieraHi. I climbed the route today, 2023-03-09. A thin metal cable is in place. You need to climb 2-3 m in the beginning to reach it, and half way up the cable stops. I had difficulty locating a second cable and started free climbing until I spotted it in the middle of the two narrow gullies.
I only spotted one cairn and no paint spots on the return, so I had to rely on mapy.cz to make sure I walked far enough north before returning towards to the valley. But still a fine route!