Via Ferrata "C.A.I. di Portogruaro"

Page Type
Route
Location:
Belluno, Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Via Ferrata
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
medium/hard via ferrata
Grade:
V

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Page By:
Via Ferrata
Created On: Apr 24, 2007
Last Edited On: Jul 19, 2007

Overview

This route for the summit of Monte Cjadenis ( 2459 m ) was a warpath of the first world war built by the " alpini " ( italian army mountain reparts ) that has been re-newed by the climbers group C.A.I. di Portogruaro several years ago. It can be climbed either from east or from south west, but the first option is by far the best.
The difficulty is never high ( max UIAA II ) but can be quite exposed in some parts and very dangerous in case of falling rocks moved by climbers ahead. The iron ropes are in good condition and often checked ( I think every year in spring ). The views are fantastic since the beginning of the warpath, so my advice is to go slowly and enjoy the climb but the panorama as well. Time required: 5 hours

Route Description

View from the east ridge of Monte CjadenisEastern ridge

Once arrived in the village of Cima sappada take the narrow road to the green Val Sesis ( indications for Val Sesis - Rifugio Sorgenti del Piave ). After 7 km park your car near the indications for Passo Sesis - Rifugio Calvi. Walk back on the road for a couple of hundred meters and you'll find an indication on the left for the marked path n°173 for Passo dei Cacciatori. After the bush you'll reach the beautiful south faces of the Campanili delle Genziane. The path goes up through this fantastic towers in a dark and wild small canyon. Then turn left ( indication on a big rock ) and take the warpath for Passo dei Cacciatori ( 2213 m ). From here you can enjoy a wonderful view of the Avanza and Cjadenis groups and the spectacular Val Fleons. The path continues left to Falso Passo dei Cacciatori and left again to the starting point of the via ferrata ( 2230 m , 2 hours from the parking lot ).
After the first diedral this route follows the strainer between Monte Cjadenis and the third tower and then turns left to the eastern ridge. After the caves of the WWI there's another short diedral and in a few minutes you'll reach the summit of Monte Cjadenis ( 2459 m, 3 hours ).
The descent is fun and easier then the ascent, there are just a couple of tricky passages, but at this point you won't have more problems and in an hour or so you'll be sitting drinking a beer or a coffee in the Rifugio Calvi. From the Hut take the marked path and in half an hour or so you'll arrive in the parking lot ( 1815 m, 4 to 5 hours ).

Essential Gear

Complete via ferrata set







Via Ferrata "C.A.I. di Portogruaro"

Route
2 Images 0 Climber's Log Entries 2 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections

Geography

Nearby Routes Interactive Map Routes in Italy

Parents

Cjadenis groupRoutes