Via Valencianos

Approach

Follow above directions for driving to Calpe. Follow signs to the Peñon natural park, but turn off to the waterfront when the main road begins to climb. Follow along the harbor edge, and park as far out along as legality and space allows. From here this is a spacious paved walkway that can only be described as a promenade. Weave your way through retired Germans, Scots, French, Brits, Belgians, and so on and all of their tiny little dogs. Continue to promenade pass locals on their lunch break, lovers gazing over the Meditteranean, blah blah blah. Walk on this fine walkway until the very end. Now the cliffs reach the sea, and you begin walking along it's base up and left, leaving all the crowds behind.
Continue to walk up, passing many other routes, until at the highest point that is possible to walk up without climbing. To the left is some black spray paint "Via V" just to be sure. Rack up.

Route Description

P1 5.5 Climb rather loose and chunky rock to the left of a large tree/bush. Wander a little up the easiest line to belay bolts off to the left.
P2 5.5 Head off left up easy ledges and through not too prickly bushes. Do not place any pro here to avoid rope drag. Now cut right along another ledge system, with a couple slippery but easy steps. Placing pro here is Ok, as the rope drag won't be an issue, and you're second (who is carrying the back) will thank you.
P3 5.10a It is best to move the belay to the right as far as possible on the enormous ledge before beginning. After the belayer is set, continue right on huge holds and ease back left to a short steep wall. There are two bolts on this wall. This is the crux of the route. The holds are poor for the feet, and the jug for hands is as slippery as a bar of wet soap from the thousands of hands that have gripped it. If it's too awkward, or you're just not a 10a leader, it's easy to aid and just move on to the better and moderate climb. After the crux fun, move left to belay behind a small dainty tree.
P4 5.7 Now the really great climbing begins. You are at the base of the big slightly brushy slab. Go up gradually left, following the threads and worn rock, belay at bolts.
P5 5.7 This long pitch continues to the top of the ridge. It goes more or less straight up, watch for worn rock, and the occasional thread and fixed piton. A spectacular bolt belay at the very top of the ridge, with views below to the resorts of Calpe.
P6 5.7 This is a surprise pitch, as the climb feels finished after reaching the top of the ridge. Follow the ridge, then skirt left about 15 meters. Here is a groove in an open book. Follow it up to a roof, then reach out left for a hidden jug. Pull this and continue to a bolt belay.
Two more pitches can be climbed if there are insecure members in the party. It's about 4th class to the top, most parties solo.

Essential Gear

10 quickdraws
5 shoulder slings
1 complete set of wires
4-7 cams in the small to medium sizes, one bigger cam is handy as well.
There really isn't room for much other gear.
Bolts are only at the crux and belays. Some of the fixed gear is rusty beyond comprehension, but it's clipped anyway. Watch out for threads, especially on pitches 4 and 5.
Helmet: Not too much loose rock on the climb, but the ledges have lots of junk

Why you should climb this route.

This is an old classic, first climbed in 1958. It is a great winter climb, as it is shorter than many other routes on the Peñon. The climbing is atmospheric with gulls screaming, and waves crashing below. Topping out on the ridge is a giddy thrill. There are fragrant bushes and herbs at every belay, giving off heady aromas. Via Valencianos also provides access to many other more difficult climbs.

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

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