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Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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38.63580°N / 109.604°W |
Route Type:
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Aid Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.11 (YDS) |
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Difficulty:
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II 5.11 A0 or 5.9 C1 |
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Number of Pitches:
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3 |
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Grade:
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II |
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Overview
South GossipThis is the only published route on the South Gossip of the Three Gossips formation. The hardman rating of this route is 5.11 with the A0 coming on the final short bolt ladder pitch. However, for those (like me) not up to climbing sandy 5.11 (or any 5.11 for that matter), most of the route can easily be aided (as in French free) reducing the rating to a 5.9 C1 or even lower. FA information will be included shortly.
Summit ViewsRoute Overview Shot
Yours truly on South GossipGetting There
Summit
SummitFollow the driving & hiking directions given under West Face route page on the North Gossip. When approaching the base of the west face of the tower, South Gossip and the start of this route are on the right side of the west face. Look for what looks like lower angle terrain with a fixed anchor 40 feet up.
Route Description
Pitch 1
Pitch 2Pitch 1: 5.9 C1 or 5.11, 110 feet. Climb lower angle and somewhat broken but very sandy (of course) terrain toward an intermediate fixed belay anchor. If you pick your line "correctly" (whatever that means) through this section, you'll have on-deman pro. Pass the intermediate belay and enter a wide and widening crack (#3.5 to #5 Camalot or #6 C4 at top). Move up the crack and about 10-15 feet below the belay a second wall presents itself and allows for some moderate chimneying. Belay from fixed anchor on the left.
Pitch 2: 5.10 C1 or 5.11, 90 feet. From belay ledge, make your way to the right to catch a nice crack (crack directly above belay...well, there's really not much of a crack there). The crack starts thin and hard but eventually opens up to nice thin hands and eventually good hands higher up. You're also following an acute dihedral that has a squeeze at the top. Very reasonable and fun free climbing at about 5.9 to 5.10- on that section. Belay from fixed anchor.
Pitch 3: A0, 30 feet. Make a few low 5th (but awkward) moves to reach the bolt ladder then follow closely spaced bolts up to the nice flat summit.
Descent:
Rappel the route.
Essential Gear
Pitch 3
Pitch 1Double set of cams from about a yellow Alien to #5 Camalot (or #6 C4). Whatever you like to bring for a 25-foot bolt ladder.
External Links
West Face(1) Great TR (with beautiful pic's) from Brad's website.
(2) Beta page (also courtesy of Mr. Brad) on mountainproject.com.