Regular Route

Overview

The Regular Route on Standing Rock begins on the north side of the formation and then traverses and ascends the vertical to slightly overhung west face of the rock. It was first climbed in 1962 by Layton Kor, rated at A4. It was first free climbed in 1993 by Jonny Copp at 5.11c. Since then, much of the loose rock has been long cleaned from the route, however, some holds have also broken off from the crux, making the route slightly harder, perhaps closer to 5.11d. While climbing the route you will encounter a bit of everything from traverses, to delicate face moves, and multiple types of jamming in a variety sizes of cracks.

Traditionally this climb is done in 4 pitches, however it can be done in 3 pitches by combining the third and the fourth.

Getting There

Follow directions to Standing Rock on the main page. The route begins under an obvious roof on the north side of the tower, on top of some leaning boulders and below a chalked finger crack in a left facing corner.

Route Description

Start on top of the leaning boulders on the north side.

P1: Climb up the left facing corner, following a crack that starts out finger sized and switches to hand sized. Make an exposed hand traverse out right under the roof, pull around the bulge, place an optional number 5 Camalot, and continue up some loose, broken, but easier rock to a small belay ledge with chain anchors. 5.10b/c 120 feet. Double ropes may be advisable.

P2: From the chains, make an easy but very exposed traverse right to a set of double hand cracks. Climb up to a small ledge with a star drive and good rest and climb a 5.10b awkward bulge. Continue up somewhat easier, but very exposed and steep terrain to a tight finger crack that widens as it gets higher. Climb through this, clip a bolt and/or fixed pins, jam the awkward wide section, and pull onto a comfortable but small belay ledge with an old but bomber 3 pin/1 bolt/1 star drive anchor. 5.10d 120 feet. Pro is good when you need it, but slight runouts should be expected between cruxes. Double ropes may be advisable.

P3,4: Get ready and hold on! From the belay, trend slightly left, then straight up on face holds to the first bolt 20 feet up. Stretch and clip the bolt (harder for shorter people) and pull through the crux. Mantle onto the next small ledge, clipping more bolts. Make a few more hard moves, and mantle onto a bigger ledge using a very hollow sounding flake (The Elephant Flake). This thing is going to go soon. From here the hard climbing is over. Climb up several more shelves, passing some fixed pro and an old pin anchor. Make the last awkward mantle onto the ledge beneath the summit block, turn right and scramble up onto the summit. 5.11c or A0. The crux can be french freed. 120 feet.

Descent: From the chain anchors at the summit, make a double rope rappel to the old school but bomber anchor at the top of Pitch 2. Make another double rope rappel to the chain anchors at the top of the first pitch, and from there, make a final double rope rappel to the ground.

Essential Gear

Two (at minimum) 50 meter ropes. At least 8 extendable trad draws. Quickdraws. Double set of cams from blue Metolious to Number 3 Camalot. A number 5 Camalot comes in handy on the first pitch.

Images

View Regular Route Image Gallery - 3 Images