Sentinel Peak Standard Route E3 *** (McLeod’s Variation F1 ****)

After their first ascent of Sentinel Peak via what is now the Standard Route, W. J. Wybergh and Lt. N. M. McLeod, after descending for a spot of lunch, then re-climbed the peak via the variation in the afternoon. They had left their horses and a young helper at the foot of the peak while they had their adventure. This route is the easiest way of getting to the top of Sentinel Peak and is a popular first climb for beginners. It is also the usual descent route from all the other climbs. The first pitch is protectable with just a few medium size cams and in wet conditions it may be also necessary to abseil down the top C-grade pitch when descending. Including McLeod’s Variation, keeps the route at a more sustained grade. It makes for a very pleasant alternative to the Standard Route and is well worth the effort.

From Sentinel Car Park, follow the Chain-Ladder trail until you reach a vague zigzag path heading up the slope just before the first short steel ladder section. Take this path
up and then contour west, parallel to the main path below. At this point a large gully is seen above, which is the start of the Angus-Leppan Route. Stay on the path and soon a huge white rock-fall scar in the rock face above will be seen. Take a diagonal line off the path below the scar to a recess near the end of the face. 

Route Description

Start:On the right side of the recess mentioned above.

Standard Route 1. 15m (E3): Climb up 2 metres, then move diagonally left into a narrow V-shaped chute on the far left. Straddle up the V, then step right past a peg and onto a huge ledge with a huge ring peg. This peg is also the abseil anchor. Follow a vague path to the right and up to a knife edge with a huge drop on the other side. Walk left along a narrow ledge (B), then up to a broad west slope. Keep on the vague path heading for the high left-hand sky line. 2. 15m (C): Climb the short blunt arête to a rock platform. From here head up the steep grass slopes, which lead to the summit area.

McLeod's Variation After climbing the Standard Route’s first pitch, climb half way up the big broad west face, walk to the right and around a ridge, then up to the final cliff line with a deep chimney. 20m (F1): Climb the chimney easily to below a chock-stone. Move up this, passing a peg, to reach a wide ledge. The summit cairn is just up the slope. Descent (1 hr) Down the Standard Route. One 15 metre abseil down pitch 1. 

Essential Gear

External Links