Voodoo Doll, 5.9, 2 Pitches

1st Pitch- 130’- 5.9/ The first pitch of Black Magic, just to the right is a good one, but to date, this is my favorite pitch on Lotta Balls Wall. You start below the flake type roof. Climb up past the bolt for Black Magic on the left. Pull the roof on huge jugs and hand jams. Continue up to a black varnished thin seam protected by a bolt before it begins. This pitch runs parallel to the “chicken head” infamous pitch on the Lotta Balls route and thus it too has chicken heads to balance on as you follow the thin intermittent seam up to below a roof. Move left to follow the easy corner up to the fixed belay. Wonderful moves at the grade on excellent rock. Voodoo Doll, 5.9, 2 Pitches, Lotta Balls Wall, First Creek Canyon, Red Rocks, NV, May, 2010