1st Pitch- 130’- 5.9
Voodoo Doll is a great compliment to the Black Magic and Lotta Balls routes on Lotta Balls Wall
. It runs up right between them for two pitches before ending into Black Magic on the right. The first pitch is the best moderate pitch (5.9) on the wall in my opinion.
Voodoo Doll is just another of many DeAngelo
routes in First Creek Canyon.
Park at the First Creek Canyon trailhead 6.5 miles north of the 159/160 junction (4-5 miles south of the Loop Road entrance). Hike the main trail into the canyon. As it narrows there is an obvious black buttress rising on the left side (Lotta Balls Wall). Pick up a climbers trail that meanders up the left side of the canyon and lands you at the base of this black buttress. The cool alcove to your right is called Mysterious Amphitheater and offers much stouter single pitch routes. The easy Romper Room routes are to the right of that on a black wall of varnish.
Route Description280’+/-, 2 Pitches, 5.9
1st Pitch- 130’- 5.9/
The first pitch of Black Magic, just to the right is a good one, but to date, this is my favorite pitch on Lotta Balls Wall.
You start below the flake type roof
. Climb up past the bolt for Black Magic on the left. Pull the roof on huge jugs and hand jams. Continue up to a black varnished thin seam protected by a bolt
before it begins. This pitch runs parallel to the “chicken head” infamous pitch on the Lotta Balls route and thus it too has chicken heads to balance on
as you follow the thin intermittent seam up to below a roof. Move left to follow the easy corner up to the fixed belay. Wonderful moves at the grade on excellent rock.
2nd Pitch- 150’- 5.9/
This pitch is not as sustained or interesting as the first pitch and the second half basically covers the same 5.6 territory as the second pitch of Black Magic
up to its fixed anchor. Go up 10’ and then move right following a thin crack. Then just trend right on easy traverse ground up to the fixed anchor on Black Magic. This is not a rappel anchor,
so continue up Black Magic or be prepared to rig the belay station for a double rope rap.
We left a biner at the 2nd anchor on Black Magic and rapped with double 50’s to the first anchor on Voodoo Doll which was set up for rapping. Another double rap got us back to the ground.
Double ropes if going to rap (50’s will do). Single to 3” with plenty of wires and small stuff. I used that 3” on the first pitch. Mix of slings and draws. NE facing.
External LinksRed Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, BLM
Red Rock Canyon Interpretive Association