Vrsic pass route: 5-6h to Razor + 1.30h further to Pogacnikov Dom hut. Over Prisojnik it takes whole day.
This is considered to be a classic
Razor approach. It can be done over the Prisojnik (2547m) or via its southern slopes, high above the Mlinarica valley. Since this is Razor page I’ll describe classic route through Mlinarica. Starting point of the route is Vrsic road pass (1611m), 12km south of Kranjska Gora.
If you wish to do it over Prisojnik
, which is much harder way, check the description of Kopiscarjeva Pot ferrata at Prisojnik page
. From the summit you descent into Mlinarica valley via Zadnje Okno (Back Window) ferrata (still not described at Prisojnik’s page). In the Mlinarica valley trails join, near the entrance in Razor’s western face. For an experienced mountaineer, in excellent shape, this is highly recommended. You are going to spend most of very long day hanging on ferrata routes with exceptional views. If you wish to make it during the day start from Vrsic at dawn.
Southern route above Mlinarica valley
is also tough and long but much less technical with ‘only’ one ferrata section in Razor’s western face.
From the Vrsic pass, by the Ticarjev Dom hut macadam road ascents towards Postarski Dom hut. You follow it till the sharp left bend and continue straight. Path goes around Sovna Glava (1748m) and reaches the pass at the foothill of Prisojnik. It gradually ascends; traversing long scree slopes bellow Prisojnik’s west face. After a short sharper climb it reaches SW shoulder of Prisojnik. From here is beautiful view on the mountain surrounding Trenta valley, which is deep bellow, especially on Jalovec (2645m)
and mighty Razor, our goal.
Just behind is the junction where path via southwestern shoulder climbs towards Prisojnik. From this point you have to loose 200 vertical meters. Path descends over grassy slopes, with some scree and larch trees. When you reach the pastures of Kranjska Planina path turns left. Next section is relatively flat as path traverses grassy slopes of Prisojnik, high above Mlinarica valley, cutting many gullies, which are steeply falling from Prisojnik above. In front is towering Razor. After passing by a nice source path begins steep ascent in many sharp bends and you are getting near the end of Mlinarica valley that is squeezed between the cliffs of Prisojnik and Razor. There is more and more scree and less grass. On top of highest grass, at the altitude of some 2000m you are joined, from the left, by Jubilejna Pot ferrata that descended from Prisojnik’s summit via Zadnje Okno (Back Window).
Path continues to ascent steeply over the huge scree slopes at the end of Mlinarica valley till it reaches the entrance to Razor’s west face and first pegs and fixed ropes. Above, in the ridge, are some very wild needles. Snow remains here very long so it is good to have ice axe and crampons till the end of June. Steep shelf in the face will take you far to the right. At very interesting and dark spot path turns left and climbs steeply till it reaches more open spaces higher in the face. Views are fantastic. As it reaches the foothills of the summit cliffs, path turns right and traverses scree slopes that take you to Planja pass (2349m). View that opens towards the east and Triglav (2864m)
will surely surprise you.
On the right is Planja (2447m). We turn left as path ascends steeply over scree to the cave with everlasting snow. Here it turns right and reaches southern shoulder of Razor. View towards Skrlatica (2740m)
opens here. Deep behind you (left of Planja) is Zadnjica valley, side valley of Trenta with 1500 meters high western face of Kanjavec (2568m) above it. Path turns left and climbs straight to the summit over broken cliffs (40 minutes from Planja pass).
View from the summit is very wide on all sides. Some 2000 meters bellow is Trenta valley and shiny Soca River. Triglav shows you its most beautiful face.
After you have enjoyed the view its time to head back to Planja pass, where you left unnecessary backpack. You should be there in some 30 minutes. On the pass you turn left towards visible Pogacnikov Dom hut (2050m). Look carefully; it is so tiny from here. Path descends steeply over huge scree slopes, squeezed between Planja and Razor. At the bottom of this huge basin, over secured cliffs section you reach less steep slopes. In some 20 minutes you reach Pogacnikov Dom hut (1 hour from Planja pass).
In the period without snow (end June till October) usual hiking gear + helmet and ropes (if you wish) for ferrata sections. In snowy period everything from ice axe, crampons, and helmet to ropes. And of course, don’t forget to take lot of experience with you.