From the Wild Basin Ranger Station take the Thunder Lake Trail to the Lion Lake Trail Junction. Take the Lion Lake Trail to it's end at Lion Lake #1, then continue up past Trio Falls to Lion Lake #2,and on to Snowbank Lake then on up to the base of the route. (see map)
The route starts up a inside corner, to the left (NW) of the "nose" of the arete. We built a small cairn at the start when we did the first ascent in 1989, it's probably still there.
ascends the slabs to the left of the inside corner, 80 - 90 feet , 5.6.
starts with a short 5.7 lieback in the corner, then works its way up a chimney to a belay ledge just above the top of the chimney, 80 - 90 feet, 5.7.
starts with a short right hand traverse on a ledge, then lieback up a flake and work back left and up a groove to a good belay stance, 80 feet, 5.5. Rope drag is a problem on this pitch.
goes up a "V" groove leading up and right towards the "Nose" of the Warbonnet Ridge to a large ledge, 100+ feet, 5.5.
At this point walk towards the "nose" of the ridge along this exposed ledge across the front of the ridge to the east side of the arete. This ledge is the one we named the "Walk on the Wild Side" ledge (see photo).
5th and 6th leads
climb up the steep slabs and blocks on the right edge of the nose of the ridge, 5.5.
ascends an prominent crack system on the nose of the ridge, 90 feet, 5.8. This is the crux lead.
At this point we were able to unrope and climb simultaneously up through the upper section of the route until the last 80 foot headwall just below the top of the route. Some of the moves in this section are 5th class, but because the ridge goes up in short steps we felt it was safe to climb unroped ... others may not agree.
goes up a steep headwall to the ridge leading to the summit, 80 - 90 feet, 5.4.
The entire route up the ridge is approximately 1500 feet long.
A standard rack with a selection of stoppers and cams, and a 50 meter rope.