Warren Peak to McGlaughlin Peak Traverse

Warren Peak to McGlaughlin Peak Traverse

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.96850°N / 113.468°W
Additional Information Route Type: Mountaineering
Seasons Season: Fall
Additional Information Time Required: A long day
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: Class 3
Additional Information Difficulty: Class 3 with slight exposure
Additional Information Grade: I
Sign the Climber's Log


Start at the same Trailhead as you do for The Warren Peak climb from the Edith Lake route, which is the upper Moose Lake Trailhead 17 and Trail 26 at an elevation of 6,375 feet, hike up the trail 2.2 miles or so then the trail splits at an elevation of 7,245 feet, take a left here NORTH on now Trail 111 and hike up the hill to the trail junction at an elevation of 7,856, take a right here now heading SOUTH on Trail 97 for about 1 mile than you will hit Edith Lake at an elevation of 7,870, hike to the very end of the lake and leave the trail and turn Left (NORTH) and start bushwacking it up the Class 3 beargrass special terrain to the tree line at about 9,200 feet

(NOTE:) the whole SOUTH WEST Face of Warren Peak is all CLASS 2 no serious exposure at all, and usually takes a good scrambler about 1 to 2 hours from Edith Lake.

From the summit the Traverse begins scramble back down the SOUTH Ridge of Warren Peak to about the 9,300 foot level, which is the begining part of the Saddle, the moves are no more than Class 2, until you start up McGlaughlin's North Ridge, two exposed Class 4 steps must be crossed or bypassed along the very steep outcropings of cliffs on both sides of the ridge, If your feel ok with exposure then a rope might not be mandatory, and may be usefull with the bad rock.

Route Description

Once in the bottom of the Saddle of the Ridge you begin to climb back up the now NORTH Ridge of McGlaughlin Peak the exposed ridge still is mostle Class 2 to Class 3 with moderate exposure, there are however, two steps of low graded rock climbing (5.4?), but with much less exposure and the steps are about 45 feet high, after the two steps cont. on the ridge up to the flat summit of Mclaughlin Peak.

Decending the WEST Ridge of McGlaughlin Peak will be the shortest and easiest with Class 2 down to Edith Lake's WEST shore back onto the trail here.

Can be done in a day, with about 21 or so miles and about 6,200 feet of elevation gain over tough terrain and exposed to storms most all the route.

Essential Gear

No tech gear needed for most people.

In bad weather?
8.1 twin rope 37 meter(just one)
few slings
few hexes maybe some small stoppers.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.



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