Page Type Page Type: Trip Report
Date Date Climbed/Hiked: Sep 13, 2008
Seasons Season: Summer

Great Route

Summit picture
This is the third trip to the summit for Andrew and me by two different routes, but never boring. Andrew's new wife has really taken to rock climbing, so we decided to summit a rock this year with her. This is a great mountain and route if you are new or intermediate in your rock climbing experience. This gives you just enough of a challenge and exposure without getting over board. The first pitch is 5.5 making you sweat just a little if you lead it, the chimney is short, but a fun challenge and you get some breaks on the route where you can pass or be passed by others if you are slow or tired. Route finding is not difficult, anchors are good and the summit on a clear day is tough to beat. We had an exceptional day with views to Glacier Peak to Baker and more.

Follow the Gullys

Nearing the Chimney, South Arete route
Check Pitch 1 pictures, read the guide books and get going. You will basically follow a series of gullies. Rap slings occasionally appear and probably other parties on the route to keep you on route, but we had no problems and we're not expert navigators, so just enjoy going with what seems to be right. We belayed when we felt it was the right and safe way to go, simul-climbed a lot. I can't say enough that this is just a great route for climbers of our level and easy to protect with solid anchors. However, be ready for traffic. The first time Andew and I climbed it on a Saturday, there was no one on the route. This trip, we had minor traffic jams, but all were careful and unhurried. Another great day in the mountains with friends and family.


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