This was a cracking route and part of our acclimatising for the Matterhorn later in the week.
Two other teams on the route, stunning alpine setting. Met the masses coming up from Hohass on the the long glacier route from the north. The SSE ridge is far more enjoyable and interesteing , although no more technically difficult that the N.
Had snow, ice and rock - so perfect day out for me.
It was a cloudy day and on the summit there was no view! The SSE-rigde is very nice! The normal route isn't as nice as the SSE-rigde. In seven hours we where at the Weismieshutte!
Perfect weather, no real difficulties along the route...
It was very fine weather. We saw at Zwischenbergpass a beautiful sunset. After the glacier we turned off, 280m before the summit. I think we had not enough aclimatisation. But we come back!!!
Nice climbing in a windy day.
We (Valerio, Paolo and Sabrina) reached the top in a very short while.
Easy but careful for the crevasses
An interesting easy glaciar excursion... my first big glaciar crossing in the summer time. (seems about the same as in winter, on skis, except more crevass fall danger) A complete circus. I counted 25 people before us on the summit and more than 50 after... everybody started at exactly the same time so it meant a constant line of leap-frogging all the way up. Not recommended, at least on a weekend. Weekday or offseason - something to avoid the crowds - and would be a great easy peak.
Beuatiful day, beautiful climb. Wasn't all that easy, the rock ridge is quiet steep (especially descending) but everything went fine. The ridge to the summit is magnificent.
Perfect conditions. The cable car makes it an easy day in the high mountains.
See my trip report and pictures here:
I have climbed this peak twice now, both times successfully but under vastly differing conditions. In 2002 it was mostly a snow climb and descent. In 2003 there was much more rock exposed around the SSE ridge and some nasty crevasses and seracs to turn on the descent across the Hohsaas Glacier. Attached a couple of photos to show crevasses etc.
Spent a night in Almageller Hütte. Then up to Zwischbergen Pass with almost fine weather, until I started for the final snow ridge...I got to the top in a thick mist, and heard a kind of ghost emerging from it, say "Berg Heil..." while we shook hands. The way back was the same, but a thick cover of clouds would remain for the rest of the day....
Together with my brother. After a rainy start it became nice weather. Fantastic view. Quite clouded and cold when we returned.
On a morning after fresh snow and not very much visibility we had an interesting ascent to the summit which has no cairn, cross or madonna! I really enjoyed this mountain. Descent by the same route. With Don from Inverness.
Nice route from the Almageller hut via Zwischenbergen-pass and the rocky S-ridge to the summit. Managed to time the worst weather! Snow and icy winds up on the ridge. Visibility: zero.
Just as my first visit in 2002 but worse!
Maybe a third time?
Being mostly begginers, it took us quite long to do this slightly more difficult route, but finally we were happy to choose it - it was more interesting and we were alone all the time. Weather and visibility were excellent.
Our first 4000 experience. Started at 8.00 a.m. from Hohsaas with my brother and a local guide under a clear sky. In 2,5 hours to the summit. Great view on a.o. Bernina Gruppe. Back at Hohsaas by 12.15. Used some drinks and soup before further descending via Weissmies lodge to Kreuzboden. Great experience!
Climbed from the hut, leaving before the other groups. A fine walk with no technical problems. It took under 2 hrs to the summit.
We took the cable car to Kreuzboden (2400 m). From Kreuzboden we walked towards the Triftglacier. Crossed the lower part of the glacier up to the Hohsaas hut at 3000m.
Next morning we started to climb at 5.30 am. Clear sky, but not very cold. Great views at the summit (Monte Rosa, Mischabel Group). Nice climb.
In 2 hours en 45 minutes we reached te summit. It was a beautifull weather without clouds. Magnificent view! Easy glacier!
Climbed in one day without acclimatation.Terrible headache!!